emy 的个人资料nomads - europe 28.7.05 ...照片日志列表 工具 帮助

日志


6月14日

honey! i'm home!

g'day from australia! aussie aussie! uuuuugh...
 
what a weird feeling it is to be back 'home'. only 2 days ago i was sitting on a train, travelling from larisa to athens with a fortune teller, a souvlaki maker and a photocopier, and now i'm sitting in my bedroom in melbourne, surrounded by purchases i made around europe, with the heater on, and mel walden (shit, is that his name? that tubby little guy...?) is talking in the background, telling me the latest news.
 
the trip home went eerily smoothly. as in, too smooth for my liking. nothing went wrong. nothing at all! i caught the 8.32am train from larisa and arrived in athens 3 hours later. on the train i was seated next to a fortune teller from bulgaria, a souvlaki maker from albania, and a greek girl that works in a photocopying place. the fortune teller assured me that it was a great day to travel when i asked her if she could see my plane making it home safely, then asked me to tell her my lucky number. from that she concluded that what i need in my life is a mentor to lead me, and to be open to change and risk. i assured her that i was quiet open to change and taking risks, having just spent almost a year of my life constantly adapting to changes (ie. new hostels, new countries, new people) and taking risks (ie. leaving accommodation/transport bookings to the last minute, going where i never imagined i'd go, and other such adrenalin inducing acts of risk taking). despite her misjudgement, i thanked her and promised i'd take her advice on board. then she mentioned that she was on her way to athens to give an interview on tv and because it was her first time on television she had gone to a beautician to pretty herself up. i would've suggested a magician, not a beautician, but i held my tongue. after all, she told me that i was in for a good trip and i didn't want to do anything to upset my good travel karma. anyhow, she went to the beautician to get her arms waxed (something to do with her hormone therapy or sumn...), and because her skin is sensitive, she broke out. i offered her what little tea tree oil i had left, and she slathered herself in it, constantly thanking me while rubbing my shoulder, and reassuring me that i radiate good vibes and a good aura. phew, thank goodness, cos i was starting to think there was sumn wrong with my vibes. then she asked me for my contact details in australia so she can find me if she ever comes for a visit. before we parted ways in athens, she came over and gave me a huge hug and the 2 greek kisses, one on each cheek, then told me that when the tea tree oil finishes she's guna keep the empty bottle in her handbag so she can keep channelling my good vibes and aura...(!)
 
in athens i swapped trains and arrived at the airport nice and early. the emirates desk was already open, so i checked my stuff in as soon as i arrived. i got chatting to the guy at the desk and by the time he sorted out my passport and boarding card, he forgot to weigh my suitcase. just as well too cos i was about 6kg over the weight limit. if the plane crashed it would've been my fault, but i justified it to myself - with the 4 or 5kg's i lost while overseas it's not too bad if i then take a few extra kilos with me in my suitcase. they would've had to carry that weight anyway, wouldn't they...? except i think i put all that weight back on on the flight with all the food they kept giving me so it would've been their fault if the plane fell out of the sky (and they got my order right for once! no meat in sight the whole trip home!!)
 
the flight home was good too for the most part. as we were approaching singapore the pilot told us that we'd be flying thru monsoon rains and storms, and i thought, 'i knew it! it was too good to be true. this is how it's all guna end! screw the fortune teller and her reassurances!' however, it didn't all end there and we landed safely after a bit of turbulence. our flight was delayed for a while because of this bad weather and we finally arrived in melbourne at about 1.30am. clearing customs took a while cos it was a full flight and they didn't have immigration forms on the plane so we had to fill them in at the airport. by the time i did that and found my luggage on the carousel, it was about 2am. arthur, mark, jacs and fran were waiting for me outside. i'd dreamt about this reunion so many times in the last 10months! there was a time there that i'd fall asleep picturing this scene, over and over. i pictured myself jumping for joy to be back, hugging everyone and telling them all how good it was to be back. then there were the times when fran and i would catch a flight somewhere and as we'd come thru the gates one of us would inevitably say, 'imagine we just landed in melbourne and these people are here to see us..." didn't turn out quite as i'd pictured it. for one, fran was at the airport and my parents weren't. that wasn't part of the plan. fran and i were spos to come back together and console each other on the flight home. secondly, i'm not happy to be back. when i left greece i kept telling myself, 'think how great it's guna be to jump in your car and go for a drive! think how great it's guna be to jump in your car and go for a drive!'. i kept that 'positive thinking' bullshit up for most of the flight, until i saw adelaide's lights winking at me from 35000 feet below and it hit me that i was home. i kept wishing that i could turn the plane, and time, back to where it all began. i tried to pretend that the plane was going the other way, but it didn't work. a greek lady that adopted me during the flight caught me crying at one stage and became concerned..."emy!? emy, what's wrong?? are you ok??!". what's wrong? you wana know what's wrong?? i'm going home! back to a place that sleeps while the rest of the world is awake, back to a place with no donkeys (no four legged ones, anyway), no pyramids, no souks, no castles. back to a place with no cousins to spoil me, no grandmothers, no uncles, no aunties! back to a place where i need an alarm clock to wake me because there's no immamm to do it! i told her i was fine but really, i wasn't. after all, it's time i got over it, no?
 
when the plane landed in melbourne and i saw the virgin blue and qantas planes parked at the airport, i had a mini panic attack. oh my goodness! was i really missing in action for 10 months, or did i just go away for the weekend? how come everything still looks the same?? am i like mao tse, who wasn't sure if he dreamt he was a butterfly or if he was a sleeping butterfly dreaming that he is a man?? did it all really happen? how come it doesn't feel like it has? i was gone for ages, why is it still only 2006?? i feel like i've lived a thousand lives since i left, and here nothing has changed!! aaaaahhhh!!!! i think i was almost expecting a sci-fi scenario, where i return to the planet i know, only to find it full of robots walking around instead of humans. but no, st albans is still st albans, with a new illuminated sign here and there, but basically, it's still st albans.
 
i spent most of the flight home listening to some dude singing the koran on the in-flight radio and a couple of babies squealling their cute little heads off. and for future reference jacs (cos i know you'll be needing it again), channel 22 :o)
 
but you know what? i am excited about being back. honestly. i have a lot to look forward to here also. on my way home from greece i was receiving messages from friends who wanted to make sure i got home safely, then a bunch of other friends stayed up til 2am, waiting for me to arrive. you can't really put a price on that, and if you guys are reading this, thank you. (for coming to the airport and for thinking of me, not for reading this. duh...) none of those 2-minute friends that i met along the way will compare with the real thing. i'm looking forward to catching up with friends, i'm looking forward to getting back to work, i'm looking forward to going for drives down the great ocean road, i'm looking forward to partying at retro, i'm looking forward to being a tourist in my own city for a while, i'm looking forward to saving up enough money so i can get the hell back out of here again. hahaha! 
 
i got so excited when i went to the supermarket this afternoon! i walked into safeway (hehe, that's sound funny! i still can't believe i'm back!) and i was about to message fran to ask her what $3.28 was in euros until i remembered that i was in australia and it doesn't really matter what $3.28 is in euros. then i was faced with a dilemma...is $3.95 too much to pay for a kilo of onions? what are onions worth these days anyway? have prices gone up or am i imagining it? can i bargain at the supermarket, or is that a no no here? if i pretend to walk off cos i don't like the price will they call me back and play by my rules, or will i return home onionless? (oi, shiela, check out me onions. special price for ya, love, howz 2 bucks sound aye? - nah, just doesn't have the same ring to it). no, this is australia. i will return home onionless. when i got to the check out and the chick asked me for $40.20 i stared at her for a while. not because she asked for so much money (hey, i bought a lot of onions) but because she wanted me to pay her in dollars! wow. imagine! dollars! dollars! do you know how many times i would hold an australian dollar bill in my hand and think about what my first purchase was guna be when i get home?? not many, cos i left my aussie money in greece, but i thought about it lots...dollars! amazing stuff i tell ya.
 
today i got up at about 2pm and looked thru some more stuff that i didn't get to look thru yesterday and tried on my old clothes to see if they still fit. i can't believe the amount of clothes i've got in my wardrobe! what a waste! what the hell am i spos to do with 7 pairs of jeans, 5 pairs of black pants, 27 black tops, 13 jumpers, 8 jackets, 39 handbags, 14 pairs of shoes?? i can't believe there was a time where i used to look in my wardrobe, this same wardrobe i'm telling you about now, and think, 'i need new clothes, i've got nothing to wear". i look in there now and i think, 'what a waste of money!! what the hell am i spos to do with all these clothes? who needs so many anyway? don't you know you can get by on 2 pairs of jeans emy?! duh...' i'm not guna buy clothes for the next 5 years now (famous last words)...
 
then i had my little supermarket experience and then...guess what i did then!? i bought myself a massive serve of noodles with tofu!!! MM MMMM! i've craved them for almost the entire time i was away. the closest i came to these noodles was in london, 5 months ago!!!
 
when i got home i called mama and papa in greece. what a surreal moment. me in australia, talking to my parents overseas! they were getting ready to go to the beach and i was getting ready to turn the heater on. welcome home emy. great timing.
 
oh, and before i go, here's my travel anthem for my next travels:
 
...and the road becomes my bride
I am stripped of all but pride
So in her I do confide
And she keeps me satisfied
Gives me all I need

...and with dust in throat I crave
Only knowledge will I save
To the game you stay a slave
Rover wanderer
Nomad vagabond
Call me what you will

But Ill take my time anywhere
Free to speak my mind anywhere
And Ill redefine anywhere
Anywhere I roam
Where I lay my head is home

...and the earth becomes my throne
I adapt to the unknown
Under wandering stars Ive grown
By myself but not alone
I ask no one

...and my ties are severed clean
The less I have the more I gain
Off the beaten path I reign
Rover wanderer
Nomad vagabond
Call me what you will

But Ill take my time anywhere
Im free to speak my mind anywhere
And Ill never mind anywhere
Anywhere I roam
Where I lay my head is home

But Ill take my time anywhere
Free to speak my mind
And Ill take my find anywhere
Anywhere I roam
Where I lay my head is home

Carved upon my stone
'My body lies, but still I roam'
Wherever I may roam
 
(wherever i may roam - metallica)
 
that's all for now.
 
lotsalove from...melbourne (aaaaaaaaahhhhhh!! make it stop!)
 
emy
xxx

moments in time - ACT I

"...more rocks..." "...here, i'll wash, arthur can wringe and you hang them on the balcony..." "...i can't handle this heat anymore..." "...fran! hurry! i've got something to show you on the terrace! grab your drink and come up asap! look! the acropolis!..." "...no wonder you girls aren't married yet! look at this room! it's a pig sty, and it's all your crap! clean it up fuck ya!..." "...let's take the backstreets in case he's on his way back from work and he sees us taking off. shit! is that him on that bike??..." "...you have to go to a bar called indy's in zagreb. you should go even just to look at the cocktail menu. it's not a proper menu. it's just pages of plain white paper with the drinks written on there and you get to design it yourself. they ask you to draw a cock on it..." "...max..." "...it was great meeting you. happy trails and goodbye..." "...what are you doing? this is my bed. oh you put the sheets on? my friend returned to the room before me and i thought she got the bed ready for me...shit, sorry. there's another bed on the top bunk if you want that one..." "...check out that palace! it's massive! and that church. i've never seen anything like it!..." "...uuum, fran? this train's rolling backwards. should we have gotten off at the last stop?..." "...please tell me you're joking. surely we don't have to walk up that hill to get to the hostel..." "...if i hear mozart's name one more time...!..." "...aaarrrgh! did the gorilla just pee on us????!!!!..." "...shhh, we gotta be quiet. oh shit! the pasta's boiled over! shit shit shit!...DING DOOOONG! oh shit! that wasn't the porch light, it was the doorbell! shit shit shit!  RUUUUUUUN!!!!!!!!..." "...uuum, this isn't the maria-plain station? where's maria-plain??!..." "...oh.my.god! the colour leaked! what am i guna to do!!!!!?? what would my mum do if she was here????!..." "...quick! throw the whole thing in the shower and we'll try washing it!..." "...du reckon the lady will notice that the doona is soaking wet? no way, she's guna have to throw it out. she's guna hate us. and she only charged us for 5 nights instead of 6..." "...quick, close the door! B rabbit's guna get out! that's all we need. first we wake her up, then we ruin her doona, now we're guna let her rabbit loose!..." "...hello, you look lost. can i help you with directions? by the way, if you're looking for somewhere to have a drink, try the haufbrau haus around the corner from here..." "...do you have to pay to use these toilets?..." "...happy trails. might bump into you somewhere else around europe. goodbye for now..." "...the skylight's leaking!...fuckin busabout! can't wait til we finish with them!..." "...where have you been so far? where are you from? where are you heading to after nice? how are you finding busabout? yeah, this hostel's pretty crap huh? yesterday i went to have a shower and the water kept turning off. and there's no powerpoints! what the?..." "...and duhduhduhduhduh..." "...for those of you that want a drink, there's an irish pub around the corner from the hostel..." "...i'm just guna make a quick phonecall here. you girls keep walking and i'll meet up with you - don't turn off this road!..." "...i love you kangaroo, yes i love you. i'm sorry yes i'm sorry. i love you australia, yes, very good, i'm sorry, i love you kangaroo..." "...hey! are you german? shut the fock up!..." "...i need to do laundry, i stink!..." "...i can't believe this crap. how can they exploit people like that? 90euros for a candle!! you've gotta be fuckin joking! let's go have a drink, this is pissing me off..." "...hmmm...shopping?..." "...um.. there's no light in the bathroom. and do those stairs slope to the right, or is it just me?..." "...sugar sugar...honey honey..." "...that's the mona lisa?..." "...bad photo!!..." "...don't know what all the fuss is about really, it just looks like the art centre spire..." "...can you believe we are standing under the eiffel tower, fran?! ME and YOU, under the eiffel tower! in paris! we are in paris! ME and YOU! in paris!!!!. and look at all those guards with the machine guns! hmmm, he's not bad!..." "...hehe, look at that man in the funny mask! he's scarring the shit out of people! that's sooo funny. come, it's our turn to go in. oh. shit. look at all those stairs! no wonder quasi didn't come down once he went up there - he couldn't be bothered climbing back down!..." "...come on, we can do it!..." "...another turning point, the fork's stuck in the road..." "...you can't take the elevator from the bottom to the top. you have to walk to the first floor then take the elevator from there. no, there aren't that many stairs...about 340..." "...water! give me water! i'm dying! 340 stairs my ass! how come those people are coming from the bottom by elevator??.." "...wow! look at the eiffel tower! it's sparkling! i'm so glad we did this bike ride. it's the best thing we've spent money on!..." "...have you ever heard of latvia?..." "...sorry, you are not allowed to take photos. i will have to take your camera and you can pick it up at the end of the show..." "...i'm so over these train stations! they stink like piss..." "...nice meeting you. here's my email in case you ever come to australia. happy trails. goodbye for now..." "...it's 9 o'clock. get out! it's not my problem if your clothes are still wet! it's 9 o'clock, get your washing and get out!..." "...don't worry, we'll hang everything up on our travel clothesline and then we'll dry what's left with the hairdryer..." "...how many swiss army knives should i buy? one for my dad, one for my brother one for my cousin. am i forgetting anyone?..." "...shite, my jeans have fallen apart. i'll be arrested for indecent exposure soon. i think it's time i bought new ones..." "...wait til we get to prague..." "...look at that waterfall!..." "...i need to get out of here! i'm getting cabin fever! i've read all the books i can find. let's go to the bomb shelter for a drink tonight..." "...but it's raining! what about our hair?!..." "...stay in touch. safe travels. goodbye..." "...bloody norah!..." "...get up ya lazy bitches!..." "...which street did we come from? we're guna miss the last bus if we don't find the busstop soon!..." "...i wish it would stop raining..." "...put your masks on! we'll take photos with them. ok, you sit over there, you there, and i'll set the camera up and then jump over there...quiiiiiiiiiick before the timer goes off!!..." "...man, these mozzies are killing me! they won't stop bitting! bastards!..." "...ciao ciao ciao..." "...alora. ALORA. alora. alora. alora. alora. alora..." "...um. what day is it again?..." "...i've gota call home at some point today. haven't spoken to my parents for a week..." "...i've got the hiccups..." "...now really, what do i need one of those squeeshy things for? no, i don't have children to give them to, no i don't want your squesshy thing, no i won't be buying one. thank you. i said no squeeshy things!..." "...watch your bag. there's gypsies on this train..." "...holy shit! there's the colossium!...can you believe we're standing in front of it!?..." "...can't believe i'm eating a cheese sandwhich inside the colossium...who woulda thought?..." "...look! there's the pope! i think he's blessing us in italian..." "...time grabs you by the wrist, direct you were to go..." "...i've gotta do a post. my backpack's getting too heavy. shit, i gotta carry all that crap to the post office now..." "...whadayamean i have to go to a newsagent to buy a box and an envelop??! this is a post office for godssake! do you sell stamps at least?!..." "...i've got the hiccups again..." "...boo!..." "...yeah , fran, that was really scary..." "...fran, number 4, that 'beautiful' song is on again. we've gota find out who sings it..." "...it's our last day here. let's see what's guna happen..." "...scusi mate. can we chuck these bags under the bus?..." "...have you got any aspisin left? i've caught a cold again..." "...i have to buy a phone card. i told jacs i'd call her today..." "...fuck. another church..." "...what time are we setting the alarm for in the morning?..." "...is there anything we have to do tomorrow? i think i'm due for a day off..." "...happy 4 month anniversary! can you believe it?? four months!!..." "...so make the best of this test and don't ask why..." "...night maude..." "...coffee?..." "...what time do we have to be at the station?..." "...which platform?..." "...i'm hungry again..." "...the ferry can't be booked! how are we guna get to sicily now??..." "...let's go, we got an invite to go to the cockpit of the ship with the sailors. wooohooo!..." "...hiccups again..." "...si, ferry...sicilia...malta..today?...time? che...t i m e...f e r r y...g o..." "...there isn't??! what do you mean there's no ferry leaving for malta today?? what are we guna do now??...we don't have accommodation..." "eeeeey, carmelo! ciao ciao! si, dormire buono! graci!..." "...set the alarm for 7.30am. we have to get our tickets for malta as soon as the office opens. there's no way we're staying in pozzallo another night!..." "...where the hell is carmelo? he said he'd meet us here at 8. screw this, lets walk into town before the tickets are sold out..." "...oh...it's daylight savings today?...oh...so it's 8.30 now, not 9.30...oh...so carmello didn't stand us up?..." "...fran, i'm guna be sick. where's the toilet?!..." "...tomorrow we go gozo..." "...iiiiiiii love you, youuuuu love me, weeeee're a happy family..." "...hiccups again..." "...man, i'm starving...we have to go find food..." "...lets not go back yet. there's some benches there, we can sit and talk for a while..." "...i'm seriously starving now. let's look for some shooting stars and wish on them for food..." "...look fran, a bakery! du think it's open at this time of the night!!? oh thank you god! it is! quick! bread!..." "...we'll call this one guiseppe!..." "...it's not a question but a lesson learnt in time..." "...i so can't wait to get home. i wish we could just press 'fast forward' right now...and we've still got months to go. du really reckon we'll make it? what the hell were we thinking maude?..." "...oh maaaan! look at all our clothes! it's so good to change these jeans! and this top! i forgot i even brought it with me! this is so good! and the hair straightner! hello hair straightner! i missed you baby!..." 
 
END OF ACT I
 
 

moments in time - ACT II

"...look! snow! it looks so pretty!..." "...it's so freakin cold. lets sit in this cafe and have a hot chocolate. i just wana feeeel..reeeeal looove..." "...i'm not getting in that lift. let's take the stairs..." "...mladin's a funny bastard isn't he?..." "...we have to go buy jackets. and shoes. i can't handle these clonkers any more. i hate them. one day kids will be teasing our kids at school that their mammas wear army boots and our kids won't be able to say anything!..." "...tomorrow we'll go to the castle..." "...ok, tomorrow we'll go to the castle..." "...my stupid phone's not working again. i tried to send a message and it won't go thru..." "...time for another hot chocolate?..." "...bosnia? yeah, why not? bosnia sounds good. we'll check it out..." "...didn't they say they were guna pick us up from the station?..." "...i've gotta stop tripping over!..." "...that must be pidgeon square and that must be our hostel..." "...it's something unpredictable but in the end is right..." "...this is amazing. look at all the bullet holes in the buildings. and everyone is so friendly and happy, like nothing's happened..." "...can you believe we were watching the war on the news about 10 years ago and now we're here? wait, i have to touch a bullet hole..." "...no more burek. i can't handle any more burek. all i want is a salad sandwich..." "...um...there's no hot water again...and the bath is full of hair. those boys are fuckin feral..." "...that tour was crap..." "...let's go have a look at the turkish bazzar for a while and then we'll go back and get some sleep..." "...i'm not that tired anymore. let's try and find a cappucino and then maybe we can go to the suprmarket and get something to cook for tonight..." "...what the hell is that noise?? oh, it must be the muslim priest praying from the mosque. how cool is that?!..." "...what the hell does Km stand for?..." "...i've got the hiccups again..." "...what's the exchange rate?..." "...fran, do you really need another scarf?..." "...do you know what day it is today? i've lost track again..." "...these shoes are pissing me off..." "...come in, come in. no buy anything. just for look...is free to look..." "...do you have any vegetarian food here?...v e g e t a r i a n...you know, with no meat? no, no fish and no chicken either..." "...man that sounds so haunting. i have to find out who sings it..." "...this is amazing. how do we explain it to people back home?..." "...i hope you had the time of your life..." "...hehehe! i'm so funny!..." "...what do you reckon the first thing will be that you do when you get back home?..." "...you know what i really miss? i miss being able to just get in my car and drive without having to figure out timetables and wait for the bus. and listen to my music!..." "...do you reckon we'll remember how to walk in high heels again when we get back?..." "...i need to grab the hairdryer from your backpack to dry my shoes..." "...it's in the bottom..." "...let's stop for a coffee. we can write out our postcards and use the toilet..." "...i'm frozen, i need to thaw out..." "...what's the toilet like here?..." "...it's a squat. and bring some paper with you. there's none in there..." "...no way! we get our own rooms tonight for the first time in months! what luxury!...and look! hot water in the shower and paper in the toilet!..." "...check out the bridge! it's so stunning! i'm so glad we came here..." "...let's ask that dude over there to take our photo. um...why is his friend creeping into our shot?..." "...you from australia! welcome! welcome! my son live in australia. he want big shop so he move there. me? i happy with small shop so i stay here... you try cake? i give you real bosnian cakes. wait, you must try this alcohol too. very good wine. you come back for a drink tonight maybe?..." "...yook! vat is yook?? hahahah! yook!..." "...passport!..." "...you come stay in my hotel! i have very good hotel. hot water, breakfast. yes, yes, in old town. here i show you map. 5 minutes from everything! cheap price!..." "...you mean we gota climb all those steps to get to our room??!..." "...um, fran? i don't think this is elizabethtown..." "...oh man! it's raining again. i'm so over this!..." "...can you be bothered seeing the city walls?..." "...and this fountain was placed here after the conflict between the croats and the aboriginals in 1506AD as a standing symbol of peace and unity between the 2 cultures...hahahaha! we're such dickheads!..." "...so take the photographs and still frames in your mind..." "...have we decided what we're doing for xmas and new years. we really need to book something soon..." "...and now...you must give me 200kunar and i go!..." "...no! no map!..." "...you pay for tonight or not?!..." "...i can't handle this anymore! i'm over the cold, i'm over living out of a backpack...i just want my bed and a full wardrobe! it's guna be so good to wear something other than jeans again. and i can't wait to get rid of these shoes! and i can't wait to see my friends again!..." "...i know! and these wooly mammoth jackets! it's guna be so good to walk around in singlets again! one layer of clothes, not three!...and to be able to just pick up the phone and ring people! can you imagine?! we won't have to plan it for a week beforehand! and imagine just being able to put our clothes in the washing machine and walk away, instead of having to spend a whole day at the laundromat!..." "...yeah, and being able to go to bed whenever, without worrying that we'll wake everyone up. and waking up when we feel like it, not when the others get up! imagine!..." "...yeah, i can't wait for anzac day so we can get that over and done with and go home..." "...let's go check out indy's. we'll have a drink for daniel and draw a cock on the menu...hahaha!..." "...ok, we'll have just one and then we'll get home early cos we've got an early start in the morning..." "...ok, just one more..." "...danielsan, this one's for you!..." "...hiccups again!..." "...hanging on a shelf in good health and good times..." "...no, sorry, we left our passports at the hostel. we are from australia. we'll be gooooood, we promise! hehehe!..." "...shh, emy! shut up, we'll get into trouble!..." "...oh shit, where did that pole come from?..." "...you know we gota be up in 4.5hours to catch our bus?..." "...who cares! we're leaving croatia! i'll get up in 3 hours if i have to, i don't care how hungover i am!!!..." "...hello, welcome to slovenia. i'll try and give you all the information i have. take your backpacks off - they look heavy. here, let me help...i finish work early on tuesday. if you like, i'll show you around ljubljana..." "...look at this town square! isn't it beautiful! i've never seen anything like it!..." "...everyone is so friendly and happy! i love it here! i don't wana go home anymore!..." "...tatoos of memories and dead skin on trial..." "...i'm hungry again..." "...shopping?..." "...and we still need to find accommodation for xmas and new years..." "...let's go use the net for a while. let's see if we got any love from australia...nope. no love. just a stack of forwards..." "...um, fran...you know when you took the washing out? did you see my undies anywhere? i can't find them..." "...hi david! thanks for picking us up...sorry we're late. we just finished doing our washing and it took forever..." "...wow, you live in a great city. the castle looks amazing..." "...let's try some hot wine tonight..." "...mm mmm, i think it's already getting to me..." "...we really need to find shoes so we can get rid of these clonkers..." "...i can't believe we didn't find anything in that whole shopping centre!..." "...wait til we get to prague..." "...i have to remember to buy postcards and magnets before we leave slovenia..." "...kai is going to lake bled tomorrow. du wana go with him so we can get out of here for the day?..." "...look at those mountains with the snow! they look awesome!...wait, let's take a photo..." "...i ak this man fow photo. photo no good but i say ow tank you tank you so velly velly much!..." "...what's harvey norman doing in slovenia?..." "...i seriously need to listen to some of my music. i'm guna get a diskman..." "...can you believe all these people waiting to get in to aldi's! what nuts! stop fuckin pushing dude, it's only a supermarket!!!..." "...oh god, we still have to walk all the way back..." "...we still gotta go to the caves. maybe we can check out and leave our bags here and go the caves then maybe catch a night train to poland tonight?..." "...you're joking! we have to climb up that hill! why couldn't they just continue that little trainline to the top!!?..." "...this castle's crap..." "...i've checked out the trains to poland. there's one leaving at 2am, and we have to change trains about 3 times. it's guna take about 16hurs to get there. we're guna be so rooted..." "...what do you mean the ticket office has closed??! we need to get out of here tonight!!!!!..." "...let's just punt it. everything always works out in the end..." "...have you got any euros left for the ticket thru austria? i just changed all my money over. i think i've only got about 20euros left. i wonder if that'll be enough?..." "...shit there's the ticket inspector. we don't have a ticket. we're screwed now. i wonder if he'll let us buy one on the train. i wonder if we even have enough money!..." "...oh shit! everything's written in german and our train leaves in 5mins! how the hell are we guna find out what platform we have to be at???..." "...we made it! high 5 for team work!..." "...is there any room in that cabin? shit, traffic jam. back up!..." "...can you believe how cheap this hot chocolate is? my shout!..." "...did you take down the directions for that hostel? i wonder if this is the right street. let's ask someone, i can't walk around anymore. i need sleep!..." "...no one speaks english here! let's try the next street..." "...aaaah! the bed just broke!..." "...let's just do a tour out to auschwitz. i can't be bothered bussing it..." "...those italians are driving me nuts! i wish they'd shut the hell up..." "...i'm just guna call home and then call jacs. i'll meet up with you later..." "...i feel like some of that mushroom pierogi that we had the other day. and look, hot beer. what the? i've gotta try it..." "...i'm guna go have a look for diesel jeans for my bro and then i gotta go to the postoffice. you go to wawal castle, i can't be bothered. we'll meet up again when we're done..." "...em, i think i found shoes!..." "...i've got the hiccups again..." "...boo!..." "...whatever...put some effort into it at least!..." "...let's go watch a movie..." "...du wana check out the xmas markets for a while and then we'll go get something to eat..." "...how much did the post cost ya? how many kilos? how long did they say it would take to get there? did you register it? let's hope it gets there in one piece..." "...i don't know what to get for my dad. a mug? a keyring? men are so much harder to shop for..." "...i'm guna knock those italians out if they don't stop talking. i can't hear shit..." "...i can't believe what evil bastards those nazis were..." "...i wish we hadn't done the tour. it would've been better if we bussed it..." "...can you believe how dark it is already? it's only 5 o'clock and it feels like it's already after 10...this so sucks..." "...du reckon we should just give warsaw a miss and go straight to bratislava instead?..." "...man, this is pretty impressive. everything's made of salt!..." "...look at those salt sculptures!..." "...my cousins just had a baby girl!!..." "...du reckon this is going to bratislava? i know it says berlin, but this is the right platform... it's all part of the adventure, no? let's just see where we'll end up tonight..." "...em! it says katowice! quiiiick!!..." "...there's room in this cabin but there's 3 polish mamas asleep on the seats..." "...it's a communal bathroom with no door..." "...um, fran? don't mean to alarm you or anything, but there's a guy running around naked outside our room..." "...yummyyummy, yummyyummy..." "...next time we order 'vodka lemon and lime' around here, i think we need to be more specific about our requirements..." "...hari krishna hari krishna hari krishna..." "...this has to be the biggest supermarket in the world!..." "...oh shit! the yoghurt's gone everywhere! it's all over the bed! and my jeans! this was my clean pair! quick, grab me some toilet paper! oh god, i smell like a big strawberry..." "...i don't think we're guna find the cinemas, and my feet are frozen. du wana just go to that club that those french guys told us about on the boat or whatever it was?..." "...i'm seriously over this cold and the travel. if it wasn't for anzac day i reckon i could easily pack it in now..." "...em, just think how lucky we are to be doing this...come on, let's have another vodka and redbull..." "...another vodka and redbull?..." "...is it time for another vodka and redbull yet?..." "...look! there's sydney. quick, let's lie on the frozen ground and take photos!..." "...AAA...nother...TUR...ning...point..." "...thefork'sstuck..." "...inthe..." "...ROOOOOAD..." "...oh shit, we gotta be up early in the morning to check out..." "...who cares?? hehehe! i had the best night tonight. we so needed a night out! hehehe..." "...what the hell is that noise coming from our room?? it sounds like a bear!..." "...it's monumental. he hasn't stopped snoring. I've never heard anything like it before..." "...according to the map it looks like it's only about 5mins away from here..." "...i don't think this is right. let's ask someone..." "...we've been walking around for the last 3hours. i need a coffee and i need to thaw out..." "...what's the name of this street...oh, you don't speak english...oh..." "...i don't get it - how come there's no street signs anywhere?? aaaah! i just wana find the hotel now! i'm over this! i'm hungry and tired and cold!..." "...scuse me...do you know where this street is? we're looking for this hotel. oh, you don't speak english? uuuum, THIS...HOTEL...WHERE?..." "...you're joking! we practically walked straight past it an HOUR ago! aaaaaaaaaarrrrgh!..." "...hehe! check this out! big brother czech style! oh man, have a look! they're guna start punching on soon!..." "...i heard krumlov house is a good hostel. i've got a brochure and there's a map. let's ask someone which way we're spos to go..." "...you mean we could've just crossed that bridge and we would've been here an hour ago???..." "...vegie restaurant! yaaaee!..." "...here is some xmas tea. no, it's on the house cos your meal is going to take a while. enjoy..." "...you're greek! tell me what's it's like to live in australia!..." "...hmmm...there's too many to choose from. i think i'll have the pink panther to start with..." "...yeah! that sounds great! we'd love to come to the monastery! thanks. we'll meet you at the restaurant at 6..." "...oh my lord. i'm frozen. i can't feel my feet..." "...what's with the traffic jam?...oh, they're giving out free beer and presents at the door. that would explain it..." "...are you sure it's safe to walk across this frozen lake? has anyone ever fallen thru?..." "...germany is just on the other side of this hill..." "...the iron curtain used to pass thru here..." "...sorry, it's the last size..." "...look at these ceramic figurines. they're pretty cool. i reckon they'll look good in my house. du reckon they'll be ok if i post them?..." "...why is everything closed already? it's only xmas eve?..." "...let's go check out the castle..." "...you mean the potluck dinner is spos to be tonight??..." "...i so can't be bothered! let's just find somewhere that's open and eat here..." "...um...nothing's open. i wonder if there's any food left at the hostel..." "...du reckon it'll be really bad if we just rock up now? they've all probably finished cooking by now. we'll be the last ones..." "...what if we just make mashed potatoes? we'll just throw the corn and the yoghurt in and hope for the best..." "...mm, this mash is great! who made it??..." "...WE DID!!..." "...let's go to the other hostel up the road for a couple of drinks..." "...we'll go for the cheap vodka..." "...oh that is so feral!...let's have another one!..." "...hiccups again..." "...let's see if there's any food left in the fridge, i'm starving. shh, don't make any noise. here's some of that yoghurt we used earlier. oh shit, it's vanilla yoghurt! we put vanilla yoghurt in the potatoes! hehehe!...shh!" "...that malt wine stinks!..." "...i have to call home. my uncle died this morning...i might try calling jacs and mark after that too and i'll meet you back here for lunch..." "...uuum... i know i'm kinda blind and all, but...am i seeing things or did a man just walk into this restaurant with a goat, a sheep and a dog?..." "...let's check out that bar...what's with all this headbanger music? they seriously need to turn that jukebox down a bit..." "...du wana try that horor bar across the road? i think it's open now..." "...do you want to know how redbull got it's name?..." "...and so this is xmas, and what have you done? another year over, a new ones just begun..." "...happy 5 month on-the-road-anniversary!..." "...my feet are still frozen..." "...let's check out this bar. we'll have an anniversary drink and then go home..." "...i think i finally found boots!..." "...du wana watch a movie tonight?..." "...let's find charle's bridge..." "...it's so slippery here. i bet i'll be the first one to go ass over..." "...we really should go watch one of those blacklight shows. i wonder if we'll have enough time tonight..." "...watch the slush..." "...i have to go to that communism museum before we leave prague. i wana know what happened..." "...can you believe it'll be 2006 in 3hours, 24mins and 15sec!?..." "...let's have a drink to celebrate the oz new year..." "...photo time! grab your drink! channel...(!)..." "...that one turned out shite. let's try it again..." "...wait wait wait! one more!..." "...what's with all these italians!?..." "...the bastard! he scared the shit out me with those firecrackers!..." "...those donut thingies smell unreal...we gota try one. or 10..." "...buon anno!!! buon anno!! novi knock!!..." "...let's have one last drink at harley's before we go to sleep..." "...that tour starts in 5mins. du reckon we'll make it?..." "...and this is a classic example of early gothic architecture..." "...oh please somebody ask if we can stop for coffee! the tour sounded like a good idea at the time but my foots are frozen now. i can't feel my toes!..." "...look at all those graves stacked on top of each other!..." "...ok...belgium or munich? we can either work our way up and around, or down and across..." "...du reckon that's the right church? i don't see any bones and skulls...hold on, what does this sign say?...oh, wrong church. let's keep walking..." "...look at all the names of the jews. there's so many of them!..." "...nuh, i can't be bothered with any more synagogues and churches. you go, i'll wait outside..." "...we should have just enough time to go visit the dancing house before we have to catch the train..." "...oh shit, is that the time! run! our train leaves in half an hour and we still have to pick up our backpacks!..." "...wana go back to the haufbrau haus again, for old times sake?..." "...i'm over these canadians. they're being dickheads. let's go..." "...du reckon our jackets will fit into the washing machine too? it looks a bit tight. maybe we need another machine..." "...what's all that white stuff on our clothes? what the hell? they've been in the wash for an hour now and half of them are still dry! they had no room to move in there. oh shit..." "...have a look at the ceiling around the lights. can you see the swaztika? it's been there since hitler was here..." "...actually, this building is only 250 years old..." "...what else can we do now. it's too early to go home yet. oh look, there's a church. i think it's open. wana climb that tower?..." "...i'm dying! how many more steps do we have to go??...and why the hell aren't we fit yet after all these months??!..." "...what time does the train leave for dachau?..." "...this is gruesome. have you seen the photos of those poor inmates? i reckon this is worse than auschwitz..." "...can we go now? i can't handle this anymore. and i'm starving. let's go get food..." "...wana go watch a movie?..." "...shit, the movie doesn't start for another 2 hours. let's go get a beer?..." "...i can't drink this shite. let's go for a walk around those english gardens..." "...look at all those kids with their toboggans - how cute..." "...it's too early to go to sleep yet. du wana have a drink at the bar downstairs first?..." "...HICCup..." "...hi, mind if i join you? my friends have taken off on me...my name's dean by the way..." "...see you tomorrow morning, nice and early! i think it takes about 2 hours to get to the castle..." "...this...is...stunning..." "...another hill! you're killing me! this castle better be worth it..." "...i know it says 'no entry' but it'll be so much quicker if we go this way!..." "...i'll go if you go..." "...i'll go if you go..." "...let's go then..." "...reckon this bridge is safe to walk across?..." "...here dean, you can use my camera to take photos if you're having withdrawals now that you don't have your camera anymore..." "...wait let's find out what time the train leaves for karlsruhe while we're here...what?? there's a special on the nightrain to berlin? berlin it is then!..." "...bye dean! it was nice meeting you. no probs, i'll send you those photos as soon as i upload them. happy trails! goodbye..." "...did you manage to get any sleep on the train?..." "...do you wana know where we were this time last week?..." "...i'm so tired! can't wait to just crash! let's hope there's beds at this hostel..." "...i'm guna go find the supermarket..." "...ok, i'm guna crash..." "...mm canned spaghetti...times really are tough these days aren't they?..." "...we've pretty much been everywhere. now we've just got amsterdam, britain, spain, portugal, morocco and egypt left and then fran goes home and i meet my parents in greece for a month..." "...time for another vodka and redbull?..." "...so much for having an early night. i'm glad we had this chat though..." "...hi! i'm the bootman!..." "...oh come oooon! get up there and sing!..." "...we'll definitely be doing that tour tomorrow morning if you wana join us..." "...an 8 hour tour..." "...i'm so hungover..." "...and here's checkpoint charlie...does anyone know why it's called checkpoint charlie and what happened here that makes it famous?..." "...i wana have a look at those bears that michelle was telling me about...what do you mean they've been removed!!..." "...oh here's the pink floyd graphics. we walked straight past it before..." "...i'm frozen...no wonder...look! there's ice covering that river!..." "...well, if it's cheaper for me to come to karlsruhe instead of hamburg i might as well do that. it'll be good to catch up with daniel again..." "...hi there! i'm your new roommate. er, what do i do for a living? i'm a soldier..." "...oh...you're a soldier? still though, you're pretty cool for an american soldier. come have a drink with us later. we'll be going to the bar downstairs..." "...woooooo duuuuuuuuude! i'm still so stooooned!..." "...oh shit! we got off at the wrong station! ruuuuuun! we have to get across to the other platform before the next train gets here otherwise we'll miss the connection! quick! we've only got 2mins! oh shit, we're screwed if we miss this train!..." "...load up. we gotta get off at the next stop to catch the next connection..." "...hey danielsan! good to see you again. have you been waiting long? you didn't have to go out of your way. we would've found your place on our own..." "...you'll never guess what happened. we got off at the wrong stop. why do all the stations here have the same name!!?..." "...yeah we're starving! a uni cafe? let's go..." "...um, yeah we made it to heidelberg. er, no, we didn't make it to the castle. we went shopping instead..." "...there's something wrong. i was throwing up all night. i think it was that pasta we made last night...pasta danielsan, not noodles. it's called pasta..." "...what do you think of these birkenstocks? yeah i know that they don't match but they're pretty cool. whadayamean you won't be seen walking down the street with me in these shoes!!...i'm buying them anyway..." "...we don't mind washing the dishes danielsan..." "...come on danielsan! you have to a drink with us! it's the last time we're guna see you!..." "...crap! we've only got 35mins to get back to daniels and grab our stuff then go to the station! ruuuun!..." "...relax. i've never missed a train. you'll make it..." "...i can't believe the trains running late after all that!..." "...goodbye danielsan. thanks for everything. hope we meet again. goodbye..." "...this is so weird...i can't get over how you can just walk into a shop and buy dope and mushrooms..." "...i think we've walked past it. surely it's not this far...it's starting to rain too! scus me, can you tell us where the anne frank house is?..." "...look at all the prostitues in the windows...they're so young!..." "...i think we're due for a drink tonight. let's try that irish pub up the road.." "...we could just buy hair colour and have a girl's night in tonight..." "...if anyone opens the door now they're guna have a heartattack if they see us with the colour and the masks on!...quick! hide! someone's coming!..." "...i'm guna use the net for a while..." "...i so can't be bothered climbing those stairs again..." "...where can we go to spend the day? we'd like to see some windmills..." "...this place is stunning! what a cute village! there's a cheese factory too. mm mmm!..." "...and that is how you make a pair of clogs..." "...why you australians are hitting the lebanese people in australia?..." "...get in, i'll give you a lift. the brewery is a bit far to walk..." "...this is disgusting. i'm guna give these tokens to someone that appreciates beer..." "...du wana go back to that irish pub for a drink before we go home?..." ...ok, what's the first thing you think of when i say hungary?...what about austria?...france? italy?..." "...guess where we were this time last week..." "...please be careful of your valuables while you're having a drink. there are pickpockets in here tonight..." "...em! shut up!..." "...i can't HICC...help it!..." "...we really need to do some washing. both my jeans are feral. we'll take our backpack with us and put everything in as soon as it's washed. i'm guna hang out in my jacket so i can wash both jeans..." "...i can't find any cheap flights to edinburgh. we might have to go to london first and then work our way up. we'll go and ask at eurolines tomorrow..." "...oh shit! i forgot my passport back at the hostel. i'll go back and get it and i'll meet you back here in 5..." "...fran? is that the london eye? THE london eye? does that mean we're in london now??..." "...can you believe how narrow the tube is!..." "...noone's answering the door. the receptionist is probably sleeping..." "...we're so screwed if there's no beds free..." "...it's bloody freezing here!..." "...have you seen the showers here? the door is made of see-thru glass..." "...i'll give troy a call now to see when we'll meet up with him..." "...let's go check out that joint. we can have a quiet drink before we walk home again..." "...are you maltese? i thought so!..." "...look! home&away is on tv! damn i miss home!..." "...hi troy! how's things? what do you guys wana do tonight?..." "...we can start off at this pub and then go to the walkabout for another drink..." "...is this what the famous walkabout is all about? i'm so bored!..." "...should we walk home or tube it?..." "...let's walk..." "...um, i think we're going the wrong way. surely we should be there by now. let's ask for directions cos i'm freezing...scus me, which way to king's cross?..." "...you're guna walk to king's cross??? that's miles away! it'll take you at least half an hour to walk there! you're better off catching the tube..." "...im guna catch up with my friend gail on australia day. i think she wants to go to one of the walkabout pubs. wana come?..." "...uh, no. i'll pass..." "...how was it?..." "...crap..." "...i thought so..." "...let's catch one of those red busses today otherwise we're just guna end stopping at all the shops and we won't get to see anything again..." "...phil's funny isn't he? a bit dopey, but he's alright...those other dickheads that were in the room last night though. did you see how much noise they were making this morning?..." "...oh look! a memorial to animals that fought in the war. how cute!..." "...jeezus! why did we agree to let those two take our photo. we'll never get rid of them now..." "...there's hyde park! i have to find the diana memorial and take a photo of it for my mum..." "...i'll wait here, i can't be bothered coming to that palace, whatever it's called..." "...there's harrods! shopping!!..." "...shit, we're guna be late. i told felis we'd meet her at 9 and we're still at the other end of town..." "...em, where's your shopping??..." "...oh shit! i forgot it again! wait here, i'll run back and grab it! hopefully it's still there!..." "...there is a god! i've been craving noodles for months now! mm mmmmm..." "...it was great to catch up with you again after 10 years felis! see you back in oz in a few months! goodbye for now!..." "...picadilly circus is a roundabout??? why don't they just call the damn thing a roundabout then??..." "...tate gallery? where is it? yeah, i've finished from the dali museum. i'll head over there now. see you soon..." "...let's go check out this millenium bridge. what's that all about anyway? whatever. all i know is that it's freezing cold and i wana go home. i bet it's warm in melbourne right now. you know, as much as this travelling business has been a great eye opener and all that, home is always home at the end of the day, isn't it?..." "...happy 6 month anniversary! can you believe it!? SIX MONTHS! we've been away from our family and friends for A WHOLE 6 MONTHS. and they thought we wouldn't make it!..." "...westminster abbey just closed. apparently it closes at 2 today...never mind, we just saved ourselves 12pounds. sometimes you just gotta look at the positives..." "...so this is st. pauls. wait, i gotta take a photo of it for my mum...this is where princess diana got married..." "...did you manage to sneak any photos in?..." "...karaoke! no, i'm not getting up to sing! look at that dude, i think he's aussie. what a funny bastard. i'm guna film him while he's singing. at least he's doing us aussies proud..." "...yaaaae! land downunder! i said to the man are you trying to tempt me, because i come from the land of plenty..." "...we should go check out the british museum. what are those pieces of the parthenon doing in here! thieves!..." "...at least it's nice and warm in here..." "...are we in time for the free guided tour?..." "...and this is where they beheaded thomas moore..." "...thomas moore! i've heard of him! a man for all seasons, of course! we did that in literature in year 12! cheers miss keating!..." "...there's tower bridge! pretty cool bridge...nuh, there's no hope in hell that i'll be climbing to the top of that tower..." "...i really wanted to go see london bridge as well. i guess it's just a bridge though, hey?...bugger it. all i wana do right now is eat and sleep. let's go get a coffee..." "...day off today. i'm guna head to the royal courts of justice..." "...i had a good day. i went to the courts then watched a weird movie. what did you get up to?..." "...check out the taxis. they look like those cars that carry the dead people..." "...fuck, the tube's full again. we should've just walked home..." "...i guess we should go see buckingham palace today since it's our last day. we can't really put it off any longer..." "...what an ugly palace..." "...oh come ooon! how many more guards do we have to sit here and watch?? enough already. i get the point..." "...let's get out of here and go check out camden markets huh?..." "...em! shut up!..." "...i can't HIC...help it!..." "...i gota do a post. let's take our washing with us and we'll take it in turns to watch the clothes and go to the post. i think they're pretty close by..." "...these two ladies are from oz too. they're travelling together but i think they hate each other. they wana have lunch with us after we finish from the  postoffice..." "...i wonder if we'll have time to watch 'the producers' before we have to catch megabus tonight..." "...that was awesome! what a great show!..." "...oh shit, this bus is packed. how long is the trip? 10 hours!?? oh shit. guess we won't be getting much sleep tonight then..." "...the tri-nations rugby thingy is on this weekend. i hope we find accommodation..." "...do you feel like going out for a drink?..." "...fran let's go, i gota call mark in 10mins, plus i'm over this guy. he's told me his life story 4 times so far. apparently his dad was one fo the biggest bank robbers in scottish history, blah blah blah and he's making some tripped out movie about some aquatic mummies that landed on a deserted island or some crap like that. he's off his nut..." "...how awesome is edinburgh! we should've just skipped london and come straight here..." "...i'm starving. i wouldn't mind trying some of that vegetarian haggis..." "...what are you girls drinking? it's our shout. your drinking a what?? there's no way i'm guna ask for that at the bar! yeah we're from belfast. i own the citysightseeing tours there. when you get over there, here's my number, give me a call and you've got yourselves a free tour..." "...you've been travelling together for over 6 months! you must be out of things to talk about by now. what do you do when you go out? do you just sit there calling each other names all night just to have something to say to each other?..'bitch!', 'whore!' 'cow!' hahaha!!..." "...actually we hadn't thought of doing that but thanks for the suggestion! we really have run out of things to talk about so we just sit there looking at the ceiling most times..." "...the crime bar! hahaha! look how she wrote it! the crime bar. give me the paper, here i'll write it properly. it's called the crown bar, not the crime bar! hahaha! the crime bar!..." "...another drink? my shout again..." "nuh, we really shouldn't, we have to be up early in the morning. we're going on a 3 day tour to the isle of skye. yes, i know we'll get plenty of sleep when we die, but i need sleep!..." "...ok, just one more and then it's time for bed..." "...ok, just one more and then it's time for bed..." "...nice meeting you. yes, we'll call you when we get to belfast. thanks heaps. goodnight!..." "...this is one of the best tours we've done, no?..." "...loch ness!..." "...aye..." "...there's hamish the hairy coo. aye..." "...the british came and stole the land from us. aye..." "...and this is an ancient druid contemplation ground. here the druids would come and look for answers to their problems. it has mystical powers. be sure you don't take anything away from here..." "...here's the memorial to the real 'braveheart'..." "...and we'll quickly stop here at rob roys grave so you can take some photos. aye! nay problem..." "...and here's another castle..." "...and here's another castle..." "...and here's another castle..." "...enough of the castles! i refuse to take any more photos of them. i'll wait in the bus where it's warm..." "...this wind is crazy! look, it's holding me up...i'm screwed if it decides to stop now though, i'm guna go straight over the cliff..." "...yeah, i got here on a ship. it was great. i got to work with the crew and at night when i would try and sleep the ship would rock from side to side..." "...yes, it's very cold in finland..." "...andrew, get your guitar! do you know green days' 'time of your life'!?. no? what about 'live' then..." "...bye guys. it was nice meeting you. good luck with your travels. goodbye..." "...do you girls wana do a free walking tour of edinburgh?..." "...come, we gotta hurry. our bus leaves in 10mins and we still gota grab our backpacks. we should've got all our souveniers yesterday. we always leave things to the last minute! we'll never learn..." "...would you like brown bread or white? one piece of cheese or two? would you like it toasted well or not so well?..." "...um, actually, i just wana eat. i'm starving. make it whichever way it's quicker to make it..." "...should we call that guy for the bus tour and see if we can do it tomorrow?..." "...his phone's off. i wonder if we can just rock up and show them that paper where he wrote his name..." "...oh! you met alex in edinburgh?! that's great! yes, of course we'll give you the bus tour for free..." "...scus me, are you going to be much longer?..." "...no, i'm just getting my things ready. i'm in labour. i'll only be a few more minutes and then i'll go downstairs to call a taxi..." "...oh, you're pregnant?? take you time! damn! would you like me to give you a hand?..." "...i couldn't sleep last night! that chick kept moving around and making noise and when i asked her if she was guna be much longer she told me she'd gone into labour. i felt soo bad!..." "...what chick? the one sleeping on the bottom bunk under you?? she was pregnant?? hahaha! you must've felt like such a bitch for having a go at her! hahaha..." "...yeah, haha!..." "...i so want those shoes. would you spend $200 on shoes fran? do you reckon i'd get them cheaper back home?..." "...i can't believe we just watched two movies in one day. how sad are we??..." "...i really can't be bothered doing that giant's causeway thingy. wana just leave a day earlier and head to another part of ireland instead?..." "...have you seen that guy that was here last night? he offered us a lift to galway and said he'd be back in a minute cos he had to do something on his car and he hasn't come back. that was an hour ago..." "...do you guys want a lift with us instead?..." "...sweet!..." "...so folks, there's a bit of shower now folks. just a shower folks, just a shower..." "...why is it famous you might ask??...well, because it's famous folks, because it's famous..." "...how long do you think we should stay in wales for?..." "...oh you're from australia? one of my work mates is from there. he's on his way here, you'll meet him soon..." "...your from australia!!! uuuuh, the aussie accent! i miss it so much! what are you guys doing later tonight, wana come out with us?..." "...i can't see us doing our washing now. let's go buy a new top and hit the town later instead. it might help lift our mood a bit. we're due for a big night out and i'm sick of wearing the same clothes every day..." "...maybe we should stop at this pub for a drink first. i don't think the clubs open til 11 anyway..." "...you're from australia? here, i'll shout you a drink. what are you guna have?..." "...hiccups again..." "...what about this club? kaytoo or whatever it's called. one of those chicks gave me a couple of passes when i walked past before so we can get in for free and if it's crap we can always leave and go somewhere else. i think i've got a couple of other passes too..." "...that was a pretty good night hey?..." "...oh man i need sleep. that music from next door is doing my head in..." "...there's those shoes again. it's a sign. the cosmic forces are telling me to buy them..." "...there's nowhere to hang your clothes in the shower and everything gets wet. if i hang it over the door then i'm constantly worried that someone's guna walk up and pinch my stuff. and it's a push-button shower again. you gotta keep pressing the button every 15seconds cos the water turns off. em, i just wana go home...i just want a proper shower without my clothes getting wet, without having to press a button for the water to come out, without worrying that my stuff is guna get pinched! i just wana go hoooome..." "...ooh my goodness, this has to be the worst hostel in the world. i'm busting to go for pee pee but there's no freakin way in hell that i'll be using that toilet. it smells worse than the train stations in paris. i reckon it hasn't been cleaned since the hostel first opened. i'll probably catch some exotic irish disease if i use it. screw that..." "...my eye's twitching again..." "...one of those guys we were talking to last night was found dead in his bed this morning. those guys are all cops. they're here to investigate what happened. can you believe it?..." "...this place is so festy. i'm taking my toothbrush with me. i'm guna go brush my teeth at maccers. i can't go into those toilets, i'm guna throw up..." "...wana watch a movie to fill in the time before we go to the airport?..." "...you can use the computer here to look for flights to morocco..." "...we've got a week to spare. why don't we go back to paris for a few days before we go to portugal?..." "...what the hell is that tapping noise? it sounds like a horse galloping around. it's driving me crazy! there's no way i'll be able to sleep. it's so freakin loud. it sounds like it's coming from the heater..." "...AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH! em! oh my god, you scared the shit out of me! give the mask to me, i don't trust you. you'll probably come up to me in the middle of the night and scare me again..." "...HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA oh that was soooooooooooo fuckin funny!! you should've seen the look on your face!! no way, i'm not giving you the mask. you're guna try and get me back for that. i don't trust you either! hahahahaha! that was the funniest thing that's happened in the last 6 months!..." "...yeah, funny for you maybe..." "...so? have we decided about paris yet? are we definitely going back?..." "...we've only got portugal, spain, morocco and egypt left, then we go to turkey for anzac day and then fran goes home and i meet my parents in greece for a month before i go home too..." "...i don't know yet, probably some time mid june - so can't wait..." "...let's go book our bus to paris straight away to make sure we're outta here on the 9pm bus. if we have to stay in london for even one night again i'm guna scream..." "...can't wait to get to warmer weather!..." "...my eye hasn't stopped twitching for the last couple of weeks. it means i'm guna see someone i haven't seen for ages, and now guess what? jacs just sent me a message to say she's booked her tickets. she's meeting us in egypt! can you believe it!? she's finally gona do it! after all the times she's said it, she's finally guna do it!! i so can't wait, you don't understand!..." "...em, you know how your eye's been twitching? mine started today too..." "...it's snowing outside. hope it stops before we have to leave..." "...i can't believe we're in paris again!..." "...let's stop for a coffee. i'm frozen. we'll look for a hostel again when we've warmed up a bit..." "...you'll have to split up for the night. i have 2 beds but they're in seperate rooms and they won't be ready til this afternoon. you can use one of the rooms to have a shower now if you want though and you can leave your bags in the storage room..." "...maybe we should take it in turns to have a shower in case someone comes in? the doors are see-thru..." "...wana go to the louvre today? we didn't really see much of it last time we were here..." "...you'll have to change rooms again in the morning. you'll be in separate rooms again for the night..." "...i was really looking forward to a sleep-in this morning. now we have to check out again and move our stuff to another room..." "...st chappelle was a bit of a let down, wasn't it?..." "...nuh, i can't be bothered going to the picasso museum. i'll go check out the catacombs instead and then we can meet up again for dinner..." "...let's go back to that falafel joint where we used to go last time we were here. for old time's sake..." "...i'm guna go to the sacrecuer while we're here. i'll meet you back down when i'm done..." "...that irish pub we went to last time is just around the corner. let's go for a drink there. for old time's sake..." "...i've gotta do a post and then call jacs..." "...have we figured out how the hell we're getting to portugal from here?..." "...nice meeting you! if you're ever in australia, here's my email address. happy trails! goodbye..." "...let's just catch the bus to eurolines and ask there if we can get a eurolines bus from here to portugal. surely we should be able to..." "...shit, i forgot to pay for the room last night!..." "...our bus leaves at 12.30 doesn't it? what time is it now???...whadayamean it's 12.30!! ruuuuun!!!!!!!!" "...i'll help you find your bus. follow me...here, this lady is going the same way as you. she'll look after you...goodluck!..." "...thank you! thank you! mwah!..." "...look, the sun is shining! can you believe it!! i can't even reemeber the last time i saw the sun!..." "...when sonia said that portugal was old, i didn't realise she meant old old..." "...this place is so cool. i love it here! it's got such an amazing vibe!..." "...oh man, i can't believe we have to climb that hill to get to the main part of town. this is killing me!..." "...water, give me water! i think i'm dying. you'd think we'd be used to this by now!..." "...maybe next time we should catch the fernicular. it's there for a reason you know. no, i'm not being lazy!. ok, maybe i kinda am. but come oooon, it's a ballbreaker of a hill! .." "...that...was...the best...dessert...ever!..." "...i can't believe it's guna rain today! noooooooo!!!..." "...that's pretty cool. i'm guna take a photo of it. um...what the hell is it? oh, it's a big vodafone guitar! haha! i think i'll bring my glasses with me next time..." "...this rain is crap. and there's no window wipers on this bus. how are we spos to see anything?..." "...i'm from belgium. i bet you've got some good stories to tell if you've been travelling for so long..." "...i had to sleep under a bridge one night to save on accommodation. it was a little bit freaky but that's where all the fun is..." "...sintra's nice..." "...em, i've only got 8 weeks left! i'm so nervous about going home! i really don't want this to end now..." "...68euro! not 16!! uh no that's out of our price range by about 60euro. do you mind if we use your phone to call another place that's close by? thank you so much!..." "...maybe we should check out that market that receptionist was telling us about while they get our room ready. there's no point in hanging out here til 2..." "...en uro! en uro!..." "...it's already midnight. i can't see us going out now. let's just go back to sleep..." "...i like her shoes...i wonder where she got them from..." "...i can't believe how hard it is to find vegie food here!..." "...hi there. how would you like to come on a tour to the white villages tomorrow. i promise you you won't be disappointed. ok, i'll give you 5mins to think about it while you eat and i'll come back..." "...i can't believe we're at a flamenco show, sipping sangria, in spain!..." "...these villages are amazing. i'm so glad we decided to do this tour!..." "...that was the worst bus ride. i couldn't get comfortable. i thought it was never guna end..." "...let's watch the fireworks in the town square and then go to that italian restaurant the receptionist told us about..." "...have you got the map or have i got it?..." "...em, there's a hair academy. didn't you say you wanted to cut your hair. it might be cheaper to get it done there..." "...you know this time last month we were in edinburgh freezing our butts off...can you believe that was only a month ago!?..." "...who's got the phone charger and camera charger. my batteries are dead..." "...i've still gotta pack my backpack. i couldn't be bothered doing it last night..." "...have we got everything? did you check under the bed...ok, load up, time to go again..." "...wait here if you want. i'll go upstairs and ask if there's any rooms available..." "...i bargained him down a bit and the room is pretty good. i told him we'd take it..." "...let's check out the travelbar across the road. we can have a couple of quiet drinks there. it looks pretty good and it's within stumbling distance..." "...hello! come have a drink with us!!!!..." "...i need food and water. i'm dehydrated..." ...this salad is the best. it's cured my hangover!..." "...let's check out that shopping centre at the end of the pier. we might find shoes..." "...i need to get off this bus. i'm frozen. maybe we can get up early and do the rest of the tour tomorrow?..." "...la familia is a bit of a let down. we should've just had a look from the outside..." "...this park is unreal..." "...so that's the famous goanna?..." "...i don't think this is the right stop. we should've got off about 3 stops from here. we're miles away from home!..." "...it took me ages to find the right train station and it was about 2 hours from here but it was good. dali was a freakin genius. anyway, what did you get up to today?..." "...travelbar again? we have to celebrate our last night in europe..." "...this dude's from norway..." "...HIC..." "...yeah, let's go to a club after here!..." "...i've gotta do a post again. my bags gotten heavy. and i think i'm guna dump this wooly mammoth jacket here too. don't think we'll be needing it any more...goodbye wooly mammoth jacket. you've been good to us. thanks for keeping us warm..." "...let's take a photo in the post office so we remember all the times we've posted things home..." "...i have to send everything in this massive box! my parents are guna freak when they receive it. they'll think i've posted myself home!!..." "...i can't believe europe's over and done with...we're almost going home fran. i'm so sad. i'd give anything to stop time right now..." "...goodbye barcelona! goodbye europe!..."
 
END OF ACT II
 
 

moments in time -ACT III

 "...no, i'm not paying 160 dirham. we find another taxi..." "...check this out! it's amazing! look at all the people in the square!..." "...i have to message jacs and tell her about it!..." "...beep beep...ems, i'm so jealous. i can't wait to hear those arabic drums as well and feel the warm breeze. not long to go now! see you in egypt in a couple of weeks!..." "...aaaaalllllaaaaah!!!!..." "...what the???..." "...i put monkey on your arm!...take photo! take photo!..." "...please take monkey off my arm...and don't take photo..." "...is that a table full of false teeth over there??..." "...i have to have some of that mint tea! mm mmmm..." "...come come!...free to look! no pay!..." "...hello! where you from? australia! welcome welcome! aussie aussie! you look for free! i have many leather bag. shoes? lights? i have spices and herbs! please, you look for free, no pay!..." "...you look like from maroc. you maroccan? no? but you look like from maroc!..." "...you have beautaful ayes!..." "...i'm guna have a mint tea..." "...no no, i'm not guide. i just help you. my uncle has shop here with many nice things. you come see. if you no like, you no buy..." "...bonjour mademoiselle...sa va? oh you very beautaful..." "...you from america? english? australian??...oh! welcome welcome! aussie aussie! you come look to my shop...no no please, just look! i make special price for you! please you look..." "...where the hell have we ended up?...let's follow those white guys there. they're obviously tourists too, hopefully they'll be going back to the square soon..." "...these bags stink!..." "...i make you tea...berber hospitality...now, which carpets you like to buy?..." "...you have something to give me? a pen maybe? something from australia?..." "...20 dirham is nothing. you give me 50..." "...aaaaaaaaaaahhhh! em those women are chasing us!..." "...i make good henna tattoo! why you run away??..." "...did you bring toilet paper. yeah, it's a squat. good luck with that..." "...let's do that sahara tour. it sounds pretty good..." "...aaaaaalllaaaaaaaahhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!..." "...no more tagine. i can't handle tagine one more time. or couscous. no couscous, no tagine..." "...5 more minutes. pleeeease! i'm still so tired. just another 5mins..." "...i'm sure they said we had to meet here at 7am. it's 10 past now, no? they must have meant 7am moroccan time. i could've slept in an extra 10mins!..." "...that's the most bizzare landscape - look, snow, desert and an oasis all within meters of each other. and look at all those men sitting around doing nothing. how do they pass the time every day? check it out, they're everywhere!..." "...they must be boiling in those long black dresses. they're crazy walking around in this heat. i wonder where they're going?? the closest village is bloody miles away! those poor babies wrapped up under those black dresses must be suffocating..." "...look at that! it's so moroccan! those women are carrying baskets of stuff on their heads! and look at that dude working on that field with a donkey!..." "...check that out! there's a guy sleeping by the side of the road in the middle of nowhere..." "...did you see what that little kid was selling? it looked like dried fish. was it dried fish? why would you be selling dried fish to tourists in the middle of the desert? why would a tourist want to buy dried fish in the middle of the desert? wierd..." "...i can't believe i've caught a cold in this heat..." "...that dinner was unreal. i don't usually like couscous but that was so nice. i'm ready to hit the bed now. we've gotta be up early again in the morning..." "...there's no water in this gorge. does that still make it a gorge?..." "...bonjour mademoiselle. sa va? where you from? you have bewdaful ayes. come look at my shop. i have many bewdaful things. you need scarf? i have scarf. look only 50 dirhams..." "...no fran, you don't need another scarf. don't make eye contact and just keep walking..." "...let's go eat, i'm starving. great, tagine again. over it!!..." "...look at those kids carrying stuff with the donkeys. surely they should be at school instead of working on the farms. we don;t realise how lucky we are in australia..." "...check out those women washing their clothes in the river! i wana take a photo of them!..." "...no photograph. if you take a photo of the women you have to ask first. you can take photo of men and animals no problem, but not the women. very bad to take photo of the women so please don't..." "...now we visit berber kasbah. don't give the children anything because if you give one you will have many many children from the kasbah asking for something too..." "...please take off shoes before going into house. ok, now please take a seat. we show you how we make berber carpets..." "...if you no buy anything we still friends. if you buy something very good, but if no, we still friends..." "...pleeease buy berber carpet. this is how we make our living. very good carpets. we have many many for you to choose from. very good carpets..." "...is this the sahara!!??..." "...ok, please take only what you will need for tonight and leave everything else in the van. we will be taking the camels from here and sleeping in the desert tonight..." "...hahaha check that out! that camel ran away and that dude's chasing it thru the desert!..." "...it's not as hot as i thought it would be..." "...i'm guna call my camel max. max the moroccan camel..." "...is that the tent we're guna be sleeping in tonight??..." "...i've never slept in a tent before..." "...i'm claiming that mattress in the corner...oh my, this is guna be an interesting night..." "...look at all the stars! can you believe where we are??! look around you! we're guna be sleeping in the middle of the sahara desert in morocco tonight! who would've thought??! of all the things i never expected to do in my life, this is probably one of them..." "...tagine again. how the hell are we spos to eat this with our hands??..." "...happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you!..." "...what other songs would you like us to play?..." "...i'm busting for pee pee. did you bring any paper with you?..." "...here, i've got some. take this torch with you too, you're guna need it. watch out for the wet patches..." "...aaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh! what the hell was that noise??? what's in the bushes!? it's a donkey. oh my god, the donkey's watching me pee! i can't go, i've got performance anxiety!..." "...em, will you hurry up! i'm busting!..." "...i can't believe i just peed in the sahara. that's probably how palm trees grow our here where it doesn't rain..." "...i'm guna sit by the fire for a while and watch the moonrise. see you in the morning, nice and early. like, 6am early...night maude!..." "...that's amazing! look at it coming up over the sanddune behind us! look how quickly it's rising! how beautiful! i can't believe what my eyes are seeing - the moon rising over a sand dune in the sahara desert!..." "...i...can't...do...this...any...more..." "...look at the colours of the sunrise! this is spectacular! come on fran, just a bit further! we're nearly there! you can do it!..." "...no...i...can't...i...can't...breath...properly..." "...this isn't max! who took max!! max had an earring in his nose! this isn't maaaaaaax! ok, i'll take this one then, but i'm calling him wazza! wazza the moroccan camel!..." "...can you believe it's only 9am? we've already climbed a sanddune, rode a camel and had breakfast in the sahara. as if anyone's guna believe us when we tell them. did you take some photos at least so we have proof?..." "...this is pee pee stop. 5minutes and then you come back to bus..." "...is that hail? it's hail! it's hailing in the desert!..." "...can someone ask him to slow down! i've aged ten years in the last 3 hours! did you see how close he's getting to the cliff??!..." "...did you see that?? the bus driver just stopped to let a chicken cross the road! there's gotta be a joke in there somewhere..." "...no, this is booked out. i will help you get a room in the other hotel. much nicer and i will tell him to make same price for you..." "...i'm guna use the net for a while. i'll check out flights to egypt. and there's no hope in hell that i'm going back to that market..." "...there was another pair of jeans in here. i'm sure i gave them to you to wash. oh, please don't tell me you lost my jeans, they're my favourite pair!..." "...em, um, your jeans are sitting on the bed..." "...oh thank goodness! oops, i better go tell them i found them so they stop looking for them..." "...i reckon we just skip casablanca, i'm not fussed if we don't go there..." "...my sister wants these 'hand of fatima' thingies so i gotta go back to the markets. i'm so dreading it..." "...i wonder how much those light shade things are. i want a couple for my sunroom..." "...can't believe i'm guna see jacs soon after 8 months!..." "...i just got an email telling me that the information for the flight to cairo is wrong. they reckon i gave them the wrong address..." "...um, am i seeing right? is that nipple cream up there??..." "...you want how much for the bandaids? forget it dude, i'm not paying 20 bucks for a box of bandaids! are they made of gold or sumn??..." "...ok, ok, last price. what is your last price?..." "...do you wana try some of that orange juice from those stalls?..." "...let's just get something to eat from that joint we went to last time and go back to the hotel and eat. i can't be bothered dealing with the hassle tonight..." "...what are we guna do til 3pm? let's just go to the internet and kill some time there before we catch the bus to essaouria..." "...that was the worst taxi ride! these people drive like maniacs! i thought we were guna die..." "...nuh, we didn't book any accommodation either. we'll figure sumn out when we get there..." "...no, it's very close to town. you come have a look, if you no like you no have to stay. it's just around this corner. one more corner and we're there. just follow me, is not very far. another 5 minutes..." "...i have apartment my friend. very close to old town. follow me..." "...la, shukran..." "...please my friend, i have apartment. very cheap. close to old town. just around the corner. follow me..." "...la, shukran we said!..." "...my friend, you listen to me, i have very good apartment, very very cheap. i make special price for you. please you come look, you no like you no have to stay..." "...i just wana eat and go to sleep..." "...tagine again! they don't have any other vegie food. i'm so over tagine!..." "...this banana juice is magic! i should've just had that and skipped the tagine!..." "...this restaurant is so nice. you really know you're in morocco here hey? i love the way they've set it up..." "...you bargain very hard. you very difficult woman. like berber woman. very difficult. OK! OK! i make it 300 dirham. i no make much profit, this not good price for me..." "...hi how are you girls? i'm still so tired from the sahara trip. would you like to have some mint tea at the hotel where i'm staying? it's not far from here..." "...i'm going to the post office to get rid of this stuff..." "...i'm just guna chill for a while. i can't be bothered doing anything right now. i'll go to the post later..." "...you've been playing with your phone and your camera for an hour now, are they really that interesting?..." "...my name is said and this is my friend hamid. are you doing anything later? would you like to go horseriding at the beach?..." "...i'll send my friend a message and see if she wants to come too..." "...beep beep yeah, i'm in. i'll meet you there in 10..." "...and if you don't have plans for tonight we are going out to this nice club if you would like to come with us..." "...my horse won't move! and look! fran's stuck on the other side of the beach. her horse isn't listening to her. hahaha this is so funny! bob! hurry up bob! move will ya! giddyup!..." "...they're playing hotel california! let's have another bottle of wine! i'm having the best time!..." "...pshiaaaaaaaaaoooooow!..." "...i don't want tonight to end. let's go to the beach after this place closes..." "...said is catching the bus with us to fez..." "...oh shit, we're guna be so so late. i hope the bus waits for us! how much to take our things to the busstop?? ruuuuuuun!!!!!!!!..." "...i told the bus to wait, they were ready to leave without you..." "...this is forbidden! for-bid-den!..." "...all the hotels are booked. there's no beach in fes either, where the hell are we spos to sleep tonight??..." "...i know someone with hotel. not very nice hotel but they will let you stay if i ask them..." "...this hotel is so festy. as soon as we get up tomorrow we check out and go find somewhere else to stay..." "...these beds don't look too safe. there's probably bedbugs all over them. this is gross. i'm busting to go toilet too but i reckon i'll wait til the morning. if the state of the room is anything to go by, there's no way i'm going to these ones..." "...em, i've caught your cold and i can't be bothered doing anything. go hang out with said. have a good time and i'll see you in a few days..." "...i'll meet you at that cafe again after i have a shower..." "...if police hear me talking to you about this stuff i will go to jail and nobody will be able to find me. that's why i hate this fuckin government and this fuckin king! we are not free here..." "...be careful. there is a donkey coming around the corner..." "...we go to my house now. i will make tea for you..." "...i need to do washing said, i'm guna go back to hotel. maybe fran will be there and we can do our washing. i'll meet you at the cafe later..." "...if you want you give me your washing. i'll wash it for you.  we have a washing machine now!..." "...waha?..." "...aallllaaaaahhh..." "...she'll be comin round the mountains when she comes!..." "...why are you so happy today hmm??..." "...i can't believe we're leaving fes tomorrow. morocco's over and done with also. we've only got egypt and turkey and then you go home. and i'm guna see jacs in 2 days! can you believe it!? and my parents are guna be here in a month! our trip's over fran. i could cry..." "...do you really have to leave tomorrow? nature will be angry..." "...pshiaaaaaaaaaaow!..." "...there was an eclipse this morning! i told you nature will be angry if you leave!! i told you!! you don't listen to me but i know the nature! i told you the nature will be angry! see, the sun hide behind the moon. i told you to stay!..." "...waha?..." "...goodbye said. goodbye mushkille..." "...em! i thought you missed the train! i was looking out the window for you and i didn't see you get on! you gave me a heartattack! are you ok? how was it saying goodbye to him?..." "...check out the double beds! this is the most luxurious hotel we've stayed in in the last 8months!..." "...what are you doing with the chair! oh! i thought you were guna use it to get into the shower!!..." "...if we do our washing now hopefully it'll be ready by the morning. we'll get up early and take it off the line when we get up..." "...i'll take everything and put it in the machine while you have a shower and you can hang it up when it's done..." "...everything's still soaking wet! we're guna have to put our clothes into our backpacks wet. it's guna stink..." "...the next train doesn't get here for another half hour! i hope we get to the airport in time..." "...there's an emirates office here. we'll go check our stuff in and then come back and see if we can change our flights home from here..." "...what time is it??! our plane's boarding already! i just heard the announcement!! ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuunn!!..." "...an exit form?? what do you mean we have to fill out an exit form??? our plane's boarding!!!!..." "...what do you mean you don't have any exit forms left??? our plane's boarding!!!! how long do we have to wait for you to get more exit forms?? OUR...PLANE...IS...BOARDING!!!!!..." "...shit, i forgot to exchange my moroccan dirhams. i've still got heaps left! and it's illegal to take them out of the country! what the hell am i spos to do with all that money!? i can't use it anywhere else..." "...ruuuuuuuuunnnnnnnnnn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..." "...i can't believe we nearly missed our flight to egypt! after all this time that i've been hanging to see jacs and we were guna miss our flight! we never learn do we?..." "...goodbye my lover, goodbye my friend. you have been the one, you have been the one for me..."
 
END OF ACT III
6月9日

moments in time - ACT IV

"...something happened on this flight. i fly from barcelona to cairo very often and we've never had to leave the plane before. i don't know what they were looking for. anyway, if you need anything while you're in cairo here's my number..." "...their driving is worse here than morocco! we're guna die!..." "...this hotel is no good. why you stay here? no good for 2 girls this area. i know good hotel..." "...i'm so tired. i'm just guna put all that washing that's still wet on the bed and then i'm crashing..." "...i was attacked by mozzies last night. i hardly slept at all. look at all the bite marks on my face and my neck. the bastards! even with my head under the blankets i could still hear them! bastards!..." "...i can't get away from bob marley. they play it everywhere! it's a sign. i have to go back to morocco..." "...is this breakfast? this is what we got out of bed early for??..." "...i'm so nervous about going back home. i have no idea what to expect when i get back. this has become our life now, i just can't imagine what it's like to not live out of a backpack and not have to spend a whole day looking for a laundromat or a postoffice. it's guna be so weird to have a whole heap of clothes to choose from, or to drive a car. i can't believe a while ago we couldn't wait for this to be over. now i'd give anything to keep travelling..." "...life is so different here. if someone tried to tell me that people actually live like this, i wouldn't have believed them before. but now that i've seen it with my own eyes..." "...jacs just called me. i can't believe we're in the same town! in the same city! in the same country! i can't believe i'm guna see her tomorrow!..." "...my phone's died for good now. i can't turn the stupid thing on..." "...beeeeeep! beep! beeeeeeeeeep! beep! beeeeeeeeeep! beep! beeeeeeeeeep! beep! beeeeeeeeeeep! beeeeeeeeeep! beep! beep! beep!..." "...i've never seen such chaos in my entire life! and those horns are doing my head in!..." "...how the hell are we spos to cross the road here?? they drive like freakin maniacs!..." "...are you emy? i am jackie's aunty. come with me, she is waiting for you..." "...aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh! there she is!!!! aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh! oh my god i can't believe you're here!!!!!!!!!..." "...shhh ems everyone's looking girl!..." "...no, no, i no want this money! it's sixt pounds!..." "...she said her aunty's house is only half an hour away. i think this driver's lost..." "...you stay in taxi, i go ask if it's the right house..." "...the bus to aswan is booked for tonight. we have to stay here tonight and catch the first bus in the morning..." "...bob marley again. it's a sign. definitely a sign..." "...car is not allowed in pyramids. road is closed. i have camel and horses and donkey. you can hire from me. i make special price for you..." "...these camels are guna collapse soon. they're so malnourished. and the poor bastards have to carry us on their backs..." "...now my job is finished. you give me baksheeesh!..." "...look behind you! the pyramids are changing colour! that looks amazing!..." "...why are those guys selling feather dusters at the traffic lights??..." "...that guy's lying on the ground with blood coming out of his head. he's fallen of the horse!..." "...is that a buffalo in the farm?..." "...no problem, car stop all the time. i know how to fix. no problem..." "...koshery sounds good, we're starving, we haven't eaten all day!..." "...i can't sleep. it's so hot in here..." "...i can't sleep either. what time is it?..." "...ems, stop talking to yourself! go back to sleep. it's only 4am!..." "...aaaaalllllllllaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!..." "...about time! it must be about 5am now if he's started praying. we'll get up and get ready soon..." "...taxi? taxi? taxi!..." "...la, shukran..." "...accommodation? accommodation? accommodation!..." "...la, shukran..." "...please just come look at my hotel. if you don't like, you don't have to stay. it's only 2 english minutes away..." "...are you interested in doing a tour tomorrow? we have good tours here!..." "...we just did a 13hour train ride dude. we're hungry and we're tired. can we maybe eat first, and maybe even sleep, before we start talking about tours?..." "...here's a koshery restaurant. let's stop here and get something quick to eat. i'm too tired to stay long..." "...um, it's already 2am. let's head home and get some sleep..." "...there's the emy restaurant! i've gotta take a photo in front of it!..." "...yeah, why don't we do a fellucca ride down the nile! nice day for it. i wish i knew though so i could bring my camera!..." "...i'll give you 200pounds for the memory card. no, i'm not paying more than that. i can get it for that much back home! don't worry about it, i'll buy it from someone else..." "...those birds sound like donald duck! how funny is that??..." "...that guard's got a machine gun hanging off his shoulder! what the?? we're in the botanical gardens! let's see if he'll let us take his photo..." "...welcome to my village. i am the chief here. welcome..." "...baksheeesh??!..." "...row row row your boat! baksheeeesh!..." "...let's check out that cafe up there. they might have shishas! and banana and strawberry thickshakes!..." "...it's too hot to wear long sleeves. bugger that! let them talk!..." "...there's so many flies here! you can't get away from them! the bastards! they're in our food!..." "...what a cool place this is! there's an internet cafe here as well. maybe i can burn my photos later..." "...i reckon we probably won't find it any cheaper. let's just book it thru the hotel and we'll tell them we'll only pay 40 pounds..." "...i can't believe we have to be up at 2.30am. this temple better be worth it!..." "...where's everyone spos to sit? there's no room left on the bus!..." "...it's so hot already! no wonder we had to leave at 3am. imagine we got here any later..." "...look how massive those things are! how the hell did they build them back then with just their hands??..." "...look at the hiroglyphics! now i know i'm in egypt..." "...ems, stand over there with fran so i can take a photo..." "...ok, just one more photo..." "...how the hell are we spos to find our van? there's millions of them here and they all look the same!..." "...oh dear god, i think we're guna die. our driver's about to fall asleep behind the wheel..." "...everyone tries to rip you off here! i'm so sick of it! as soon as they see tourists they start haggling. you can't go anywhere without giving baksheesh! i'm so sick of this!..." "...bloody americans!..." "...aaaahhh! my koshery! it's gone everywhere!..." "...oh shit, i'm so sorry! i can't believe my backpack fell on your food! here i'll help you clean it up..." "...bloody americans!..." "...hello! i have hotel in town! cheap very cheap! you come with me and look!..." "...no, no, my hotel is better! i have bob marley bar! you come look!..." "...no my hotel is better! i give you good price!..." "...you have bewdaful ayes!..." "...i never go to school. i clean hotels from 7 years old. 5pounds one day boss pay me. look at this! what it says in english? you want koshery?? i will ask boss to buy koshery, you no pay tourist price 5 pounds, you pay egyptian price 1 pound! shh, you no tell boss, i talk to boss he get you koshery..." "...we'll come on the tour but we're not paying more than 45pounds. we know that's what other hotels charge so if you can do it for 45 we'll come with you..." "...madam, baksheesh please. madam please! baksheesh!..." "...la baksheesh! here take these chips and go..." "...my scottish name is michael, egyptian mohammed. you come with me to my sisters house for tea. please?..." "...baksheeeeesh?..." "...i kinda like that papyrus. i might buy a couple..." "...no, this is the best price..." "...ok, we'll go buy it somewhere else..." "...ok ok, you very hard woman. i give you special price because you have bewdaful ayes..." "...bye michael, thanks for everything..." "...bob marley bar is no good. he tells everyone that he has nice bar but it's not nice. nobody goes there..." "...you want to take the slow boat or the fast boat. ok, you give me 5pounds each and we go with fast boat..." "...aaahhhh! my donkey's crossing the road! i can't stop him! aaaaaahhhhh! there's a car heading for me! make the donkey stooooop!!!..." "...hahahahahahahahahaha! oh you should've seen the look on your face! i can't believe your donkey ran away! you nearly collided with a breadcart! oh shit that was sooooooo funny! how would i explain that to your parents if you ended up in hospital??!..." "...em don't laugh! it's not funny! i can't believe my donkey ran away! i couldn't stop him!..." "...ok we get off the donkeys here and we walk thru this part. it's too dangerous because we go near the edge of the cliff..." "...come on donkey! move! donkey you're not moving! move!..." "...it's so hot! i'm dying..." "...there's not one blade of grass anywhere. i'm guna get so sunburnt..." "...water...i need water. i'm dying. how much further is the valley of the kings!?..." "...the valley is very far. we can go, no problem for me, but maybe you want stop for cold drink instead? i know a good cafe down the bottom there..." "...bugger the valley! let's go get a cold drink instead..." "...i'll have another beer..." "...another beer please!..." "...yes, yes, very bad how they hassle tourists all the time. typical egyptians. i'm not like that though. i run my business different..." "...food at your hotel is not very good. nobody likes to eat there..." "...i don't want him to help me get back up on the donkey. he's drunk. i'll get up on my own. oh shit! i buckled the poor thing. sorry donkey!..." "...very very fun! very very fun!..." "...um, jacs, what are you doing down there?..." "...i told my donkey to turn and he wouldn't. ouch, i think i scrapped my arm..." "...she'll be coming round the mountain when she comes! she'll be riding 3 white donkeys when she comes! make them go faster! this is so much fun!!!!!..." "...ahhhh, i'm falling! donkey, slow down! slow down donkey! aaaaaahhhh!!!!!!!! ouch..." "...no, really i'm ok. no i didn't break anything, i'm ok. really..." "...you want orange juice?..." "...baksheesh? why you no give me baksheesh? the tour was very good, you tell me you enjoyed it. why you no give me baksheesh now?..." "...he a poofter! a bloody poofter!..." "...thank you for telling us what he was saying. can you call him and get him to come to the hotel? he borrowed money from us and he won't give it back for long time. ask him to come here..." "...you come back in ten one months and visit me? you very nice lady. please come back soon!..." "...aaaarggggggh! shut uuuuuuup!!!!!!! stop talking for a minute! we've got a hotel already we don't need accommodation!!..." "...is ok if i smoke some hashish? you like some hashish? very good hashish..." "...you from where? oww, australia!! you have bewdaful ayes! welcome! aussie aussie!..." "...you try all the perfumes, no problem. i tell you egyptian joke?..." "...we go out tonight with my friends? i give you mobile number you call me..." "...hey! australia, you walking the wrong way! this way you come!..." "...yo! nice bobs man!..." "...i never forget the first words you speak to me...no...waaaay!..." "...yo homeboy! wassup? what's news?..." "...i want to change egypt. i don't want this country to stay like this forever. this fuckin government is bullshit man..." "...i wait for you all day at the other hotel your friend tell me you stay at. all day. i no sleep all night because i was working, and all day i wait and wait but is wrong hotel. look how tired my eyes are. now i must go to work again at the club. you will come tonight? i want to see you again..." "...do you really have to leave tomorrow? if you stay we get married and you live with me..." "...i'm guna be sick. please just make it stop! this is the worst ferry i've ever been on! that poor lady hasn't stopped throwing up the whole way! everyone else is starting to throw up too..." "...you girls go with the taxi and i'll go on the bus. i'll see you in dahab..." "...shit he can't start the taxi...puuuush..." "...i can't believe we're stuck in the middle of the desert..." "...check out the locks and the windows! they're going balistic! i can't believe this old things even got electrics!..." "...i'll message jacs and get her to send someone to pick us up or we're guna be here forever..." "...beep beep...ems they're on their way from the hotel. someone will be there to pick you guys up soon..." "...this place is so cool! how chilled out is it!?..." "...i'm ready for food and then sleep. we'll have something quick and then we'll go find a place to stay..." "...yeah, we'll take it. 10pounds you said, right?..." "...jacs, this place is amazing. now i know what you were going on about all those times!..." "...here's some water to spray the cats with..." "...tomorrow there is a full moon party at the black prince. everyone will be there. it'll be a great night. you're welcome to come if you want..." "...are you going to the full moon party tomorrow night?..." "...full moon party tomorrow night!..." "...i'll pick you up at 10 and we'll walk there together..." "...he just bought us a whole bottle of vodka. what the hell are we spos to do with a whole bottle!?..." "...no baby, i really love you baby. come on habiba why you no believe me?..." "...what an amazing place! i can't believe we're sitting here by the red sea, looking at saudi arabia, while drinking strawberry and banana juice, in egypt! the 3 of us! who would've thought!..." "...oh...my...goodness! look at the size of those meals!..." "...is that a donkey? oops! it's the immamm. he sounded like a donkey! no really! i thought it was a donkey at first!..." "...no no is not same quality. you look at this quality. is same as other one? no!..." "...aussie aussie!..." "...i give you special price..." "...come on girls wake up! come oooon! it's already 2 o'clock!..." "...all you girls wana do is sleep and shop! i think i chose the wrong travel partners!...we're in dahab for god's sake, you can't spend the whole day sleeping!..." "...aussie aussie!..." "...aaaaahhhhhhhhhh shut up jacs! let us sleep!..." "...ems can you straighten my hair?..." "...hey aussie aussie!..." "...let's go to tota's for a drink tonight. the boys will be there too..." "...what kind of a taxi is this? it's a freakin ute!..." "...ok, this is a weird party! look at all the bedouin men dancing around in their dresses!..." "...aussie aussie!..." "...i'm busting for pee pee. i can't see a toilet. bring some paper and we'll go for a walk. look, there's a wall. that'll do!..." "...fran, there's a dog watching you pee..." "...aussie aussie!..." "...nuh, i can't be bothered coming to the blue hole. i'll go to the internet cafe and look for some cheap flights to turkey while you girls are out and when you get back we can go to tota's again for a drink..." "...aussie aussie!..." "...i'm hungry again. which cafe do we try this time?..." "...i'm hangry too..." "...hungry or angry?..." "...yes, hangry..." "...what the hell is hangry? angry or hungry??..." "...come on habiba, why don't you stay here? i love you habiba. stay here with me..." "...i know you will come back. i wait for you. i know you come back for sure because they say if you come to dahab one time you will always come back. i wait for you habiba..." "...let's go to tota's for the last time. just remember we have to be at the bus station by 9..." "...we're cabbing it yeah? there's one now. oh i've gotta take a photo of this. this is so bizzare. imagine rocking up to retro in the trailer of a ute!..." "...we still have to organise our tickets to istanbul. maybe that chick i met on the plane can help us..." "...he was spos to be here hours ago. we can't wait much longer. we're so screwed if this doesn't come thru. the plane leaves in a few hours and we still need to go pick out those perfumes..." "...about bloody time! he's finally here..." "...i'll have 4 of these and 2 of these and 3 of these..." "...bye josie! yes, i promise i'll look after her. yes, i promise i'll remind her to message you every few days. don't stress. have a good trip home and we'll see you in oz in a couple of months! bye now!..." "...i need to throw up!..." "...wow, that's some way to let turkey know that you've arrived!..." "...let's go get something to eat across the road and then we'll come back and see if fran's feeling any better..." "...turkey's not as cheap as i expected it to be..." "...everyone's so friendly here!..." "...you put this scarf over your hair and your shoes in this bag before you go into mosque..." "...this feels surreal. it's so calm and peaceful in here. everything looks fuzzy. i feel like lying down on the carpet and going to sleep..." "...can you smell foot odor or is it just me..." "...nuh, it's probably my socks, i haven't changed them for about 6 days now..." "...ow! jacs man, you're feral!..." "...it's not my fault! i've run out of clean socks, we haven't done washing for a week!..." "...i'm guna head home, i still feel sick..." "...du wana check out that bellydancing show that's on in the basement tonight? we can go for a couple of quick drinks..." "...i'm having the best time! let's take over the dj booth!..." "...i said to the man are you trying to tempt me, because i come from the land of plenty?..." "...please don't say you're sorry! i don't wana hear, i don't wana know da ta ta da da da!..." "...this is unreal! check out those two girls dancing like spastics!..." "...is this what the grand bazar's all about? i'm not really that impressed. i was kinda expecting more harrassment and more carpets. maybe we're in the wrong area?..." "...it's not very turkish here is it? you hardly hear any turkish music playing. i was expecting it to be more traditional..." "...you come to my brother's shop. he has travel agency, he make good price for capadoccia..." "...i have 2 religions - i am catholic by day, and alcoholic by night..." "...let's just book it from that first place we went to. i can't be bothered stuffing around all day..." "...where are you from? australia! welcome! aussie aussie!..." "...you're from egypt too! aaaahhh! oh i so miss that place! i was living there for a year! oh i'm so excited that i met another egyptian!..." "...apple tea!!!!! mm mmmm! love it! i'm guna stock up on this stuff! i'm guna buy enough to last me til next time i come to turkey!..." "...let's go back to the basement bar for a couple of quiet ones..." "...it's 4am - what time do we have to be up in the morning? 6am!!!!! it's probably not even worth going to bed now!..." "...ooooouch! who the hell put that window there! it was a door only a minute ago! i tried to walk thru it! ooooouch! there's a freakin lump on my head! bastard!..." "...these busses are pretty flash aren't they? they smell pretty good too. go turkey!...." "...would you like something to drink? have some tea. HAVE SOME TEA!..." "...scus me lady! no no no!..." "...did he just scrub the seat where i had my foot up? weird!!..." "...phone? your phone on? who's phone on???! which people has phone on?..." "...oh man i'm busting. all that bloody tea on the bus! and i didn't even want it!...i need toilet baaad!..." "...whadayamean we have to swap busses and wait for the other people?? i...need...toilet...NOW!..." "...i'll hold, i can't use those toilets. they're putrid, the smell is burning my nose. you're brave. i'll wait outside..." "...nooooooo! my camera broke! what the hell! i was just using it!..." "...look at this amazing landscape. i've never seen anything like it before!..." "...check out the fairy chimneys!..." "...i can't believe how hard it is to find a good turkish kebab in turkey..." "...i told you to go veg jacs..." "...i still haven't seen a decent moustache. i'm so disappointed..." "...are those pistols? they're pistols! i can't believe they sell pistols in a market! i gotta take a photo!..." "...this coffee is disgusting. i asked for coffee with milk and they gave me turkish coffee with milk in it. that taste even worse than plain turkish coffee. think i'll just stick to apple tea next time..." "...where you from? australia! welcome! aussie aussie!..." "...ok, we will be leaving from anzac house at 7.45am to take the ferry across to eceabat..." "...are you anzac? welcome to turkey!..." "...hello to our visitors, my name is gazi and i'll be your tour guide for the day..." "...some people have asked me to give you time to go down to the water at anzac cove so we'll meet back here in 20mins. please don't be late because we have many things to see today..." "...and here is another cemetary with many young boys lying under the gravestones. take your time, look around and i'll explain more about it on the bus..." "...they're setting up for tonight. when you return here tonight you'll be taken thru a security checkpoint where they will search your bags..." "...these guys offered us a seat on their mat. it's nice and close here..." "...it's so cold! my lips are going numb!..." "...is that an egg? it looks like a fried egg? what the hell's an egg doing on the anzac emblem? oh, it's a flower? it still looks like an egg to me..." "...i'm shivering. i can't get warm. i can't believe there's people here in shorts! what the hell were they thinking??..." "...beep beep emy news just in terrorist attack in seaside resort dahab bomb killed 100 people news still coming in. it missed you by days. be careful, dad..." "...oh no! no no no! jacs, read this. i just checked my phone and there was a message from my dad. there's gota be some mistake!..." "...i can't believe this! how can they bomb dahab! i need to find out more! maybe there's been some mistake!..." "...can everybody please stand up and move forward to make space for the late comers. the dawn service will be starting very soon..." "...did you find out anything more? has your cousin messaged you? does she know what happened? where were the bombs? how many? who was hurt? oh god, i hope it wasn't anyone we know! why!??? why dahab?..." "...i can't do this. let's go back to the hotel and make some calls. i need to find out what happened..." "...we'll hitch a ride. here, this guy will take us for 3lira. let's get in..." "...let's have a look what it says on the net. there might be some info on there..." "...you can go back to the room you were in last night to get some sleep. you look very tired..." "...there are many kurds in turkey..." "...do you want to eat bbq tonight? what will you have? chicken? fish? vegetarian? yes we make vegetarian..." "...do you feel like going out after the bbq? we can go for a couple of quiet ones..." "...i'm guna give tonight a miss. i'm tired and we gotta be up early to go to pammukale..." "...what time did ibo and sezgin say they were guna meet us at jimmy's?..." "...happy birthday to you! happy birthday to you!..." "...happy 9 month anniversary my nomad sister! we made it!..." "...i can't believe you're going home tomorrow fran. i can't believe this has all come to an end. it's been real maude. thanks for everything..." "...is that a guy or a girl?..." "...come up and dance on the table with me..." "...time for another drink?..." "...goodbye my lover, goodbye my friend! oh shit, i can't believe i'm crying. have a great trip tomorrow fran and message me as soon as you arrive in oz! i can't believe this is all over..." "...i'm not ready to call it a night yet. let's go for a walk down to the harbour..." "...larisa has very big jail..." "...i go get you coffee. and chocolate. what chocolate you like?..." "...we still gotta walk up that hill..." "...i can't believe it's your last day today. let's go shopping and we'll meet up with jacs later..." "...62 kilos!..." "...shh you little shit!..." "...goodbye fran! it's been real my nomad sister. see you back in oz. have a safe trip. goodbye. goodbye..."
 
END OF ACT IV

moments in time - ACT V

"...i can't believe she's gone jacs. it's not so much that i'm guna miss her cos i know i'll be seeing her again soon, it's that it's come to an end. it's all over. it's all over..." "...let's go out again tonight. we'll start off at one of the other bars and see if they're any good and if they're not we'll go back to jimmy's..." "...that bar is full of prostitutes. no good. why you don't come back here?..." "...jimmy's?..." "...i'm guna go have a turkish hammam. i'll meet you back at the hotel later..." "...so, how was it?..." "...oh ems, it was unreal. you would've loved it! there was this hairy turkish man massaging me and when he told me turn over i copped a slap on the ass! but apart from that it was great..." "...there's a turkish night on tonight at that place where we had lunch. we gotta go. some of the other guys are coming too..." "...this is unreal! live turkish music! listen to that beat! i've gotta get up and dance, i can't handle this any longer..." "...i know we gotta be up early to catch that ferry, but it's our last night and i'm so psyched from all that music. let's go find a bar that's open..." "...do you wana just stay up till it's time to catch the ferry. there's no point in going to sleep now..." "...jacs, hurry! get ready, we're guna be late..." "...i'm so tired. i hope we find accommodation in samos..." "...iiiiiiiiiibooooooooooooo!..." "...ibo no like me because me no beautiful. me old. but i like ibo velly much. oh iiiiiibbooooooo!..." "...i have accommodation in town. ok 10euros!..." "...he's so sleazy!..." "...i can't believe how dead everything is around here. last time i was here you couldn't move in the clubs, they were that packed!..." "...ouch! who put that step there!? i can't believe i stacked it in front of everyone. oh the shame of it all..." "...food!..." "...i've been craving this souvlaki for ages! it was worth the wait..." "...jacs, i'm not so sure that it's a good idea to hire quads man. my insurance has expired and i've seen how you drive. no offence and all..." "...free alcohol! bonus!..." "...more free alcohol! this is great! we can afford to stay here all night!..." "...why isn't anyone else dancing?..." "...poootaaaaaan!..." "...hey there's raka! let's hang out with her for a while..." "...i'm starving. let's go see if we can find food..." "...here i pay for your food. here's some money. you take!..." "...i'm getting ungry now because i'm getting hangry. i need food..." "...i'm guna use the net while you call home..." "...ems, there's something wrong with this phonecard. it won't let me call..." "...i like this idea of getting a free shotty after every meal. is this how it is everywhere in greece??..." "...wana go back to that place we were at last night? i wonder if we'll get more free alcohol?..." "...what do you mean we can't come in because we're with albanians? that's shameful! screw you and your pub!..." "...you have to leave now. there's people waiting to check in..." "...is it ok if we leave our backpacks here and pick them up when we drop the quad off tonight?..." "...this is so much fun! i wish we'd hired it the other day when we had the whole day ahead of us!..." "...aaaaaaaahhhhhhh! watch it! intersection! i can't believe you almost crashed in front of that sign! look! - i love life, i drive safely..." "...how nice is this place? it reminds me a bit of dahab!..." "...it's freezing on this quad! can you imagine how cold it's guna be after the sun goes down?..." "...jacs, i'm guna tie your hair up, i keep getting whip lashed..." "...let's have a drink while we wait for the sunset..." "...how beautiful!. look at the colours! it's stunning!..." "...oh shit we're running so late. that poor guy said he'd wait for us to get back before he closes his shop. and we still have to get to the port by 10! gun it!..." "...on a dark desert highway...cool wind in my hair...warm smell...i don't know the rest ems..." "...lady!..." "...oh man, can you sing a different song? i'm sick of hearing lady lady..." "...check out the seats on this ferry! luxury!..." "...ems, why is she saying yes, no, no, yes, no, yes, yes?..." "...is this the right street? oh there's the hostel, we found it..." "...i can't believe how much we just ate! that's breakfast lunch and dinner..." "...my parents are on their way. they should be close to athens by now. let's go, i'll surprise them at the airport. i just hope we make it on time..." "...surprise!..." "...what are you doing here!?? oh my daughter, my daughter! why aren't you in santorini??? oh my goodness, what a great surprise!! i can't believe you're here! you're the last person i was expecting to see today!..." "...hahahaha! shh mum, it's ok, stop crying!..." "...ems, i found the restaurants! i just followed my nose and ended up here! look at all the restaurants ems! heaven!..." "...how many cd's you want? if you buy many i will give you good price..." "...ems, check out that man in front of that big building that looks like the acropolis! he's doing number 2's! hahaha that's so funny! oh, i've gotta take a photo!..." "...yeah, well, welcome to athens jacs..." "...i had the weirdest dream last night jacs. i couldn't sleep...i dreamt that i was in jail and they were guna kill me and they wouldn't let me call my parents and tell them!..." "...do you reckon that chick left her hairdryer out? damn! she packed it away!..." "...ems?...is that the acropolis on that mountain up there?? like, THE acropolis??..." "...i'm getting hangry again..." "...what are all those cops doing walking around in riot gear?? hello men in uniform! how you doin?!..." "...ow hello! you grik? we take photo with grik girls! i love grik!..." "...ems, i'm having a bad hair day. take that photo again. oh come oooon! i'm only going to be at the acropolis once, i can't have my hair looking like this!..." "...oh, that's shocking, take it again..." "...oh no way. it's saturday. the office is closed. i'll have to call them first thing monday to confirm my flights. let's eat..." "...jacs? what happened girl? what are you doing down there?..." "...i went to put my backpack on and i fell. it's too heavy! it's all that bloody apple tea i'm carrying for you!..." "...where are you going? you want a lift?..." "...what do you mean there's no 7pm bus?? we have to wait til 10?? aaaaahh!..." "...let's go find an internet cafe to kill some time in..." "...look! i think it's a wedding! i'm guna stay here and watch for a while, i'll meet you at the internet later..." "...ems! it's 9.45! our bus leaves in 15 and it took us 30 minutes to get here! ruuuuunnnn!..." "...vine leaf rolls for breakfast! mm mmmm!..." "...why is everyone just sitting around? i wana get up and dance!..." "...why don't we just go and play pool for a few hours?..." "...the boys won again..." "...ems, your grandmother is so cute! i wana take a photo of her. can you ask her to go stand over there? ok, great, now over there...that's great. one more. over there..." "...can we eat? i'm getting hungry again. i'm such a yourouna!..." "...hahaha! she said yourouna! she's calling herself a pig! how does she know how to speak greek. that's funny. very good! how does she know what yourouna means?..." "...shh, they'll hear us and come see what we're doing! i don't want them to catch us eating again! shh! hehehe..." "...what are you girls doing here!? you're eating again! did you leave any sarma's for us?..." "...nuh, jacs ate them all!..." "...yourouna!..." "...look at this stuff! oh man! i remember bargaining for this in italy! and for this in paris! i'd give anything to be back there right now! i so don't wana go home jacs! i could just cry now. i can't believe it's all over..." "...ems, you should go back to morocco. seriously, if you can't stop thinking about it, you should go. you're so close, how can you not!..." "...goodbye my lover, goodbye my friend, you have been the one, you have been the one for me..." "...ems, seriously. go..." "...can we go to that pizza place we went to last time with fran and arthur? jacs, you're guna love this pizza! it's the best pizza in the world..." "...i can't believe you're leaving...goodbye jacs. love ya chick. have a safe trip home, live it up in dahab, have a banana and strawberry thickshake for me when you get there and i'll be seeing you again soon..." "...goodbye my lover, goodbye my friend! don't start, i'm guna cry again. everytime i hear that song i feel like crying. go, your train's leaving. goodbye my girl!..." "...it's something unpredictable, but in the end is right...i hope you had the time of your life..." "...goodbye, goodbye, goodbye..."
 
END OF ACT V
 
THE END
6月8日

AND NOW THE END IS HERE...goodbye

And now, the end is near,
And so I face the final curtain.
My friends, I'll say it clear;
I'll state my case of which I'm certain.

I've lived a life that's full -
I've travelled each and every highway.
And more, much more than this,
I did it my way.

Regrets? I've had a few,
But then again, too few to mention.
I did what I had to do
And saw it through without exemption.

I planned each charted course -
Each careful step along the byway,
And more, much more than this,
I did it my way.

Yes, there were times, I'm sure you knew,
When I bit off more than I could chew,
But through it all, when there was doubt,
I ate it up and spat it out.
I faced it all and I stood tall
And did it my way.

I've loved, I've laughed and cried,
I've had my fill - my share of losing.
But now, as tears subside,
I find it all so amusing.

To think I did all that,
And may I say, not in a shy way -
Oh no. Oh no, not me.
I did it my way.

For what is a man? What has he got?
If not himself - Then he has naught.
To say the things he truly feels
And not the words of one who kneels.
The record shows I took the blows
And did it my way.

Yes, it was my way.
 
(my way - frank sinatra)
 
and now that the end is near and i face the final curtain here are my last words...
 
to those that helped make this an unforgettable experience, what can i say? is 'thank you' ever guna be enough?
 
fran, my nomad sister, maude, fatima, once again, we did it! thank you for keeping me company and lifting me when i was feeling down, thank you for sharing the good times with me and suffering thru the bad by my side, thanks for the laughs, and the tattoes of memories - we'll have plenty to share with our grandkids one day! looking forward to exploring the rest of the world with you now! it's not over yet, i promise...i know you know what i'm talking about.
 
jacs, my girl! what can i say!!?? thank you for waiting by the phone for me on endless occasions. you'll never know how much it meant to me to hear your voice and your laughter, and your words of encouragement when i was ready to give up. you'll never know how important it was to me to open my inbox and to find an email of yours waiting for me with news from home when i was feeling homesick and lonely. thanks for being there and for taking an interest in my travels, for listening to me whine about the cold weather and the difficulties. thank you for coming to the other end of the planet to see me and to share a part of this unforgettable experience with me. your friendship means the world to me and i can't wait to see you again, party with you again, dream about a different life with you again.
 
mark, you spaz!! you've been a constant source of humour and support for me thru the whole experience! despite being swamped by exams, a girlfriend, work and life in general, you didn't fail to be there for me any time i needed you. i know i can count on you for anything, even when i'm thousands of kilometers away. you rock my friend...best of luck with the rest of your studies and i hope you're up for a big night out when i get back! i really can't wait to see you again!
 
rod and sian, thanks for keeping up with my travel blog - it'll save me having to regurgitate everything when i get back! thanks for burning those photos and for keeping me entertained with the forwards! can't wait to share a bottle of red and catch up on the goss...
 
mum and dad, you guys are the best! thanks for the constant support and encouragement. thank you for caring and worrying, paying the bills while i've been gone, and taking care of the logistics. thank you for letting me move back home to save up cash, thank you for helping with the move, thank you for waiting by the phone for me when you knew i needed to hear a warm voice from the other end of the world. thank you for coming so far to be with me. just, thank you. enjoy the time you have left with your people, and i hope you have a safe journey home. i can't promise that i'll pick the olives and do the gardening by the time you get back though...
 
arth, lil bro, thanks for the messages, thanks for the emails, thanks for making me laugh when i all i wanted to was cry, thanks for caring and worrying about me while i was gone. thanks for looking after my car. i'm so proud of you for getting the promotion and i'm so looking forward to seeing you again!
 
to the countless other nameless and faceless travellers that made this journey unforgettable, a special thank you for allowing us to share our travel tales with you and for sharing yours with us. many of you inspired us to go where we never thought we would, you've become part of the fabric of this story and you pushed us to explore places that would've otherwise stayed in our imaginations only. some of you gave us the shits too, but it's all good. thank you for the encouragement to keep going, and for understanding the ups and downs of life on the road as only other travellers would. happy trails to all of you and i hope to see you on the world circuit again one day...
 
to our friends that didn't give a shit about us while we were gone, our friends that were too busy doing important things (you know, saving the world, finding an answer to famine and war), and didn't have time to send us a simple message or a quick email to see how we were coping or if we were still alive, your absence and lack of effort has been noted and, basically, screw you.
 
and last, i'd like to thank god almighty...only joking!
 
goodbye...
6月6日

4 sleeps to go!

i'm nearly back people! it's really only just starting to hit home now. this time next week i'll have already slept in my own bed twice for the first time in almost 11 months, i'll have indulged in noodles with tofu, i'll have gone for a drive, i'll have seen my brother, fran, jackie and mark, i'll have eaten at home, i'll have sat on the couch and watched neighbours and home and away, i'll have read the herald sun, i'll have gone thru all the shopping that i sent to myself from overseas. all by this time next week! en shalla! hehe!
 
to my last few days in greece...not much has happened that's been worth writing home about, and that's why i haven't.
 
i went to a local concert with my family that was pretty good. it brought back memories of the time fran and i went to a concert in cesky krumlov, except this one wasn't in a monastery, i wasn't in the czech republic, it wasn't snowing, my feet weren't frozen, my breath wasn't forming cold clouds, they were singing in a language i could understand, and there was no free beer at the end. but still, everything else was pretty similar...
 
another night we went to a ylendi (a festival type thing) in the village where my dad grew up in before he moved to the village where i spent two and a half years. when the music started playing, my grandmother was the first one up. she went and sang a couple of songs with the singer and by the time she finished, everyone at our table, and the table next to ours, was crying. so sentimental...! they were moved by the sight of an old lady getting up and shaking her fragile booty to music that was part of the soundtrack of her life, while two of her sons and her granddaughter were propping her up so she wouldn't fall. another unforgettable night to add to the collection.
 
hmmm...what else. i've been back at the net a few times, as most of you would've guessed from all the forwards i've sent you.
 
on saturday night my cousins organised a kinda 'goingaway' party for me at a local greek club. my cousins john and george where there with a couple of their mates, as well as my cousin andrea and his girlfriend marina. i had an awesome night. we danced, we sang, we talked religion and politics, we hung shit on each other, we drank, we laughed, we cried, i made them promise that we'd keep in touch, they made me promise that i would visit them again in a couple of years, and then we called it a night.
 
the next day i went for a drive to the beach with john. jacs, i was cursing that you weren't there! you would've loooooved it! every 5 minutes i kept saying "dahab!", until my cousin got annoyed and asked me what the hell a 'dahab' was. i explained to him that the place reminded me of a town in egypt. this place was unreal. same kinda set-up as dahab, with bars and cafes lined up along the water, with warm weather, clear waters, mountains, bamboo umbrellas on the sand and loud music pumping into the air. we stopped at one bar which was unlike anything i've been to before. everyone was hanging around in their bikinis and board shorts, drinking, dancing. it reminded me of a pool party without the pool. the bar was set in the middle, lower that the deck, and there were sunken podiums that looked like pools without water and they were full of yummy greek boys dancing around topless to missy elliot and dale don dale. heaven i tell ya! we hung around for one drink and then had to scoot cos my grandmother refused to stay home on her own and since a club like that is not really the scene for a 96 year old woman, we had to leave her in the car while we went on a perving spree for half an hour.
 
yesterday we got up early and my uncle took me and my parents on a loooong long drive to the other side of greece. we drove thru some of the most amazing scenery, up into the mountains, thru charming little greek villages and along the coast. i'm spewing that when fran was here we didn't venture out that far cos yesterday i saw a piece of greece that i'd never seen before, the greece that you see in the travel brochures, the greece that jacs imagined before she came here. remote whitewashed villages scattered in amongst the mountains, wrinkled old women walking around with scarves on their heads, orthodox priests with their neatly trimmed beards and their long black dresses walking around the cobble stoned streets waving to the old-timers and stopping to say a quick hello to the youngens, old men sitting around in the kafenia drinking bitter greek coffee and twirling their komboloi with precision while talking about the good old days, when they were young studs and could've had any girl in the village...
 
we drove thru scenery that would give the swiss alps a run for their money. we visited a beautiful gorge that made it into the guiness book of world records for being the deepest gorge in the world, hidden away amongst some of the greenest mountains i've seen, with a clear blue river gushing thru it at the bottom. we stopped for coffee at a little cafe, with a panoramic view of the amazing scenery we had just driven thru, we drove down roads that defy gravity, with their almost 180 degree turns and 30 degree inclines, we saw villages that have 5 houses, a small shop, and the ever present church, villages that still have no phone, no life and no internet cafes, villages where the young kids get to stay young for that little bit longer, playing in the mud and making their own fun instead of sitting in front of screens thru the best years of their life...
 
and the highlight of this loooong long drive?...i touched snow again! i grabbed a handful of snow that the summer sun forgot to melt, and i mashed it and squished it between my fingers!! after the winter we just spent in europe, where i couldn't wait to get to warmer weather and do away with my wooly mammoth jacket, it thought i'd never wana see snow again for as long as i lived. but no! i got all misty eyed when i saw the snow. it brought back so many good memories, and it was a great indicator that, although i'm coming home in a few days, i'm still in europe for now! i'm still overseas, where snow falls on mountains and stays there for months after because it's that cold! i'm still living the dream! i'm still living the dream...i haven't woken up in reality yet! so, thank you to my uncle for giving me the opportunity to hold on to this for that little bit longer, thank you to the mountains for keeping that snow frozen, and thank you to the snow for standing up to the sun! life is good.
 
when the sun went down, we were still a good 5 hours away from larisa. we still had a few hundred k's of winding roads to drive thru before we arrived home. most times the road was good, other times the road was not so good, sometimes the road was paved, other times the road was not so paved, and we finally made it home at 2am.
 
this morning i slept in while my parents and my uncle went off to sign some papers to make some unofficial farm exchange legal, and i went and had a coffee with my cousin before heading to the lawyers' as well, to sign some other legal documents for the farms too.
 
soon i'll be going to my aunties house where i have my suitcase, to sort out my stuff and get it ready for saturday. we have to share the weight out between the 3 suitcases so we don't pay extra luggage charges at the airport. i'm over the limit for sure, so i gotta see what i can cram in to my parents suitcases. i can't believe this is it. last time i packed that suitcase, i was in a frenzy cos i was due to be at the airport in 30mins and my suitcase was still empty. in order to avoid the chaos again on the way back, i'm guna pack it and get it ready tonight, 3 days in advance. i've finally learnt the value of forward planning...
 
once again from larisa,
 
loadsalove to all,
 
emy
xxx
5月31日

private screening

hmmm, a not very interesting last few days. i went to the demonstration mentioned in my previous entry. we caught the bus to the starting point, then walked about a kilometre til we reached a police line that was barricading the entry to the american army base that we were there to protest against. the base is situated inside a mountain - not on a mountain, inside a mountain. they've caved out the entire mountain and filled it with whatever an army base needs to be filled with to make it war-ready. and this would be fine i spos, except the americans missed america by a few thousand k's and built the army base in greece.

after stopping at the barricades for about half an hour, we walked back to the starting point, and then a further 6 or so k's to the closest village. it was stinking hot. they had water and food there waiting for us, then we walked a little further, to the town square, where we listened to speeches and music.

my mum and i caught the bus back to larisa while my dad walked on with other faithfuls. they returned to larisa on foot, a good 10ks away.

the next day was a write off. the only thing i rememeber doing is eating. we went out for dinner with the relos. we went to neapoli and had the bestest pizza in the entire world. my mouth's watering just thinking about it...and can you believe i managed to limit myself to just 2 pieces?? i had one for me and one for jacs. sorry girl, i couldn't do the four that you requested. maybe tonight. it's 5.20pm and the only thing i've eaten all day is a can of coke, so there's plenty of room in here for 4 pieces.

yesterday i decided to limit my internet use to a few hours, which left me a lot of time to sit and do absolutely nothing, or do something. everyone was working during the day so i was on my own. bliss. i decided to go watch a movie. i got to the cinema at 2pm, only to find out that the first movie started at 4. i sat and had a coffee and used the spare time to touch base with my brother via sms. funny bastard. he had been on an unproductive hunting trip over the weekend (lucky for all the bambis that got away, not so lucky for him) and was at home having a piss-up with some friends. reckons he'd been doing housework all day and was using that as an excuse to unwind...WHATEVER! i can just imagine him dusting and vacuuming in a frilly pink apron...like i said...whatever...

so...da vinci code - great book. pity about the movie. i thought tom hanks was guna fall asleep half way thru it. i'm guna remember this movie for all the wrong reasons. one) it was crap. two) i had the whole cinema to myself. and i mean the whole cinema. i was the only one in there. i should've taken that as a hint, but i didn't. not that i had much else to choose from, in any case. by the time the movie finished the weather had cooled down considerably, so i decided to walk the distance to the main platia. and go to the internet cafe again...

after killing a couple of hours there (my interests are growing daily - i've started to google the oddest things, just to kill time), i walked back to my cousins house nearby, had something quick to eat, then went for a drink and a d&m with him. i'm getting over the bar scene here. it's always the same old. the bars are great, and the set up is terrific, but there's only so many times i can sit there trying to talk over loud music. let me paint the picture for you - there's a couple of big platias (town squares) and a few smaller ones. in fact, you can't really walk far in larisa without coming upon one of these squares. the 2 big ones are tahithromiou (which literally translates to the postoffice square), and neapoli (which literally translates to new city). there are swish bars lined up around the square (think fed square, but flat - concept is still the same), each with their funky lounge type seating and colourful lights, chill-out music playing so loudly you wouldn't dream of chilling out, and perfect people sitting around being perfect. think southbank bars, with a chapel st crowd. think $10 for a vodka and orange. the problem is, most of these squares and bars look the same, so even if you go to one place one week, and then to another the following week, it's like you're still in the same place.

after finishing our $10 vodkas, my cousin dropped me off at my aunties house and i went beddy byes.


this heat is still doing my head in.

that's the latest exciting news from larisa...

lotsalove from here to there,

emy
xxx
5月30日

and now, the end is near...

happy 10 month anniversary to me for yesterday...
 
less than 2 weeks to go.
 
"'Oh Lord, Oh Lord! Why do I have to leave? Isn't it easier to stop TIME, just like You Did with this medieval dream sprawled in such a majestic scenery?'

Oh yes, You really had to be here to fully understand what these [10 months] meant to me... " http://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Morocco/Casablanca/blog-10952.html
5月28日

meet me at the blue cafe

My world is miles of endless roads
That leaves a trail of broken dreams
"Where have you been?" I hear you say

I'll meet you at the Blue Cafe

Because, this is where the one who knows
Meets the one who does not care
The cards of fate the older shows
To the younger one who dares to take
The chance of no return...

 
Where have you been?
Where are you going to?
I want to know what's new
I wanna go with you
What have you seen?
What do you know that's new?
Where are you going to?
Because I wanna go with you
 
So meet me down at the Blue Cafe

The cost is great, the price is high
Take all you know, and say goodbye
Your innocence, inexperience
Mean nothing now
Because, this is where the one who knows
Meets the one that does not care
"Where have you been?" I hear you say
I'll meet you at the Blue Cafe
So meet me at the Blue Cafe
 
(chris rea - the blue cafe)
 
 
i love this song. the first time i heard it we were having lunch, me, jacs and fran, by the red sea in dahab. the sun was shining, there was a warm breeze licking us, the waves were lazily rolling in, and the food was plentiful. fran and i knew that our travels were coming to an end so we were both lost in our own little worlds, thinking about the miles of endless roads we'd crossed, the trail of broken dreams that we were following, where we'd been, what we'd seen, where we going, and what was new. it reminded me of the hostels we'd stayed in and the strangers we'd met along the way who had each crossed miles of endless road themselves. those hostels were our 'blue cafes', 'blue cafes' where we'd met those who knew and those who didn't care, those who wanted to know where we'd been and what we'd seen, and those who left a trail of broken dreams that was so inspiring that we then wanted to be part of it too. and then this song came on...since then, every time i want to feel warm and fuzzy again, i play this song at top volume in my aunties loungeroom and i drive her crazy.
 
and now onto something totally unrelated...the latest news from greece.
 
my second day in alexandria began loudly...i was sleeping on the couch in my aunties livingroom, when all of a sudden i heard screams coming from the veranda just outside...'a snake...aaaaahhh! a snake! quick, it's coming closer! it's guna go into the house! aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh it's massive! look how big it is!!' i ran outside in time to see my uncle spearing the poor reptile in the head with a stick. i tried to stop him, but the snake was already in two pieces. he picked it up with the stick and threw it in the paddock across the road. my mum, the one that did all the screaming, was shaking. and of course, that went on to become the topic of the hour...'did you see how big the bloody thing was? if we didn't kill it in time it would've eaten us. for sure. there's no way we would've got away. did you see how quickly it was moving??' i'm thinking i'd be moving just as quickly if some madman was trying to pierce my skull with a stick too, but how do you explain that to an excited greek mama?
 
after she stopped hyperventilating she had a strong coffee to calm her nerves, and then we waited for my uncle to pick us up. he arrived from larisa an hour or so later and we said goodbye to my uncle and my aunty for the last time, since we won't be seeing them again before we leave for australia. my uncle promised to take me to mt olympus so, since the weather was nice, we decided to take advantage of it. we drove up to mt olympus, got out and walked around a bit and then stopped at this panoramic restaurant for lunch. mt olympus is absolutely stunning. i can see why the 12 ancient gods chose that as their home. i would've done the same if i was zeus. the mountain is covered in huge pine trees, and the wildflowers that line the roads are in full bloom at the moment. from the panoramic restaurant we could see all the way out to the coastline. there was a group of tourist there and i asked them where they came from. i got so excited when they said the czech republic! i asked them from where in the republic and i got even more excited when a couple of them said they were from brno. 'i've been to brno too!!' then they got excited that someone had heard of their town, and we chatted for a few minutes before we finally left and drove on to a nearby seaside town where we stopped for a coffee. i can't remember the name of the town now, but it was beautiful. it reminded me of dahab a little. there were bamboo umbrellas along the beach, and cafes and restaurants on the other side of the street and mt olympus could be seen from just about everywhere.
 
my dad and my uncle dropped my mum and i off at the little shopping strip nearby and we spent the next hour and a bit wandering thru the souvenir shops before meeting up with them again and driving onto larisa. when we returned to larisa we stopped off at one of my uncles friends' travel agent shop (you know which one i'm talking about, fran? the place we booked our hungary trip from). we stayed there for about an hour, then they dropped me off at my aunties house and they went back to my uncles. i was planning to go out to the bouzoukia (as opposed to the bouzoukia) with my cousins last night, but we got back later than i thought and by then i couldn't be bothered. so i had a shower to cool down (it's been stinking hot here the last week or so) and then it was lights out.
 
this morning i got up and went with my cousin stephano to a cafe where my dad and my cousin john were already playing tavli (backgammon). i'm learning how to play too (it's a disgrace for a greek not to know how to play tavli!) but i got bored after watching them play for an hour or so, so i got my cousin to drop me off at the internet cafe. in an hour or so i've gota be at my uncles. there's a peace march on at about 4pm, and my dad and i are gunna catch a bus to get to the starting point. in the dead heat of the day...
 
more about that in my next entry. hope everyone's coping well with the winter back home, and if there's any cool weather to spare, please send it over. this heat is killing me.
 
14 days to go and counting. i'm starting to have my little panic attacks about flying again and i hope i get over them before the 10th. i'm glad i'm flying with an arab company though cos they usually play the koran on one of their stations and i miss hearing an immamm praying, so that gives me something to look forward to. besides, allah wouldn't let one of his planes fall out of the sky would he??
 
 
THINGS THAT STAND OUT ABOUT GREECE:
 
* noone has a name - everyone seems to refer to each other as 'wanker' in conversations
* kids (and many adults) spend hours and hours at the internet cafes playing violent computer games, drinking coffee at the cafeterias and calling each other wanker
* you can hear greek music everywhere! good stuff
* it's one of the most expensive european countries i've been to
* the speed limit on the highways is 120km/h
* road rules don't apply
* everyone is still thin and gorgeous
 
that's all for now. i'm busting for pee pee. too much coffee at the internet cafe where i've been for the last few hours...
 
lotsalove from larisa, in 36degrees heat,
 
emy
xxx
5月27日

identity dilemma...australia V greece in the world cup

um...no, jacs, that's not what i wanted you to notice about my blog. but good try...? i have a return date on here now!! it's no more 28.7.05 - ?. now it's 28.7.05 - 11.6.06! that's something, no?? act 3 is coming to an end and it's almost time for the curtain to fall on my travels. does anyone else give a shit? i imagine not. there's only 2 other people that can possibly understand what i'm thinking at the moment, 2 other people who were in my position only a few short weeks ago. having said that, it was probably harder for them to return home cos they were leaving when things were going so well. for me, it'll almost be a relief to finally get all this relo visiting over and done with. and to get out of this crazy heat.

i've spent the last week visiting family at the other end of greece, and every time we go to another town, i discover relatives i'd never heard of, that have been dying to see me, that i simply must visit for a coffee and stay for dinner otherwise they'll be soo disappointed in me... i'd have to spend a whole year here to visit all the 1st cousins, 2nd cousins, 3rd cousins...7th cousins...15th cousins...26th cousins, as well as all the cousins' cousins, uncles, aunties, their parents and 1st cousins...you get the picture...

one thing i must say despite all my negativity though, i love hearing my dad speaking with his brothers and sisters in their pontian dialect. their conversations take place in a language that is at once, foreign and familiar to me. i love it. and as much as it's a pain in the behind to sit there listening for hours, i've learnt so much about my family's history, and greece's history, and where my ancestors fit into it all, stuff that i never knew in the past. my grandmother, along with her mother and sisters had to flee from the black sea region (pontos) in northeastern turkey, when ataturk started the genocide of the pontian greeks (they called it a voluntary exchange) around 1923 (remember the story they told us on the tour in capadoccia fran and jacs? my grandmother and her family were one of the thousands that 'voluntarily exchanged' their homes to go and live in countries unknown to them - whatever!). in reality, there was a lot of blood shed, persecution, harrassment, rapes and murder, and very little voluntary anything! after having lived in the area since 8BC, most pontians had to relocate to villages around greece, romania, russia, syria and other neighbouring countries. after escaping from turkey, most pontians continued to hold on to their customs - the traditional dances, the food, the language (which can be traced all the way back to ancient greek). those that stayed behind had to convert to the muslim religion and stop speaking greek and pontian. remember flash, in kusadaci? he was pontian too. his background would've been greek too, a generation or so ago, before the genocide. there were no turks living in that area of turkey at the time, so anyone that calls themself pontian is greek.

i also learnt that my grandmother's first husband 'stole' her (today it would be called 'kidnapped') to marry her. after she lost him in the war when he went to albania to defend greek territory against the germans who were trying to sneak in via albania, she married my grandfather. my grandfather had to take to the mountains in order to survive the persecution, and became an 'andarti' (a guerilla resistance fighter). he was stabbed repeatedly in the kidneys when they caught him but survived and went on to have 2 more kids with my grandmother, my dad and my uncle. thank goodness, cos if they didn't have my dad, my dad wouldn't have had me and really, who can imagine a world without me in it??! puhleeeez!

so, this time round we visited my dad's half brother (same mother, different father) in thessaloniki. we stayed a couple of nights, and i also got to catch up with another cousins daughter who's living here now. her father is my cousin in kalithea who we visited last week. his father and my father are half brothers also (same father, different mothers). if you're confused, welcome to my world and have pity...at least you don't have to visit them all and have coffee...anyway, after listening to them reminiscing about the bad old days of war, persecution and famine, we left and came to my dad's half sisters place in alexandria (again, same mother, different fathers).

we arrived here by train, in the dead heat of the day. my dad assured us it was only a 5 min walk from the station to their place, so we set off on foot...in the dead heat of the day. even the flies were taking a siesta. my mum started cursing my dad, 'to hell with this! 5mins my ass! why didn't we just catch a taxi? to hell with this! i'm dying. i can feel a heartattack coming on! 5 mins he says. my ass 5 mins! we could've caught a taxi and we'd be there by now.' i didn't wana laugh out loud cos i was scared she was guna clock me with the bag that she was carrying, but jeez it was funny. it brought back memories of when fran and i were in salzburg, austria, except then i had a 15kg backpack on my back, not a 3 kg dayback, we didn't know where we were going, it was 40 degrees, not 30, and we had to walk up a steeeeeep steep hill, not a flat road and it took us 30 minutes to find the hostel, not 10 mins. and neither of us were cursing. were we?? the lady that welcomed us at the hostel and had to smell us on the other hand...hahaha! yeah, you know what i'm talking about maude...! hahaha!

when we got to my aunties house, my mum nearly collapsed on their verandah. she didn't even sit down to give them the sketchy details of our trip. she had a glass of cold water and rushed to the shower, still cursing my dad under her breath. when she got out, she let him have it again...'never again! to hell with this. i can't wait to get back to australia! to hell with travelling, to hell with everything! i can't stand this heat. i nearly died i tell you!' it was so funny but i still didn't dare laugh out loud cos even though she wasn't carrying the bag anymore, she was now sitting in front of a big vase that looked like it had the potential to cause much damage when thrown from a distance by an angry greek mama. my dad was braver than i was, and he sat there laughing while she was throwing curses and giving him the evil eye, until i pointed out the vase to him. then he gave a sorta 'ahem' cough, and straightened up. when my aunties daughter came to visit (that would make her my cousin right? sorry, i've lost track...) and asked us how the trip to their place was, my mum started again, 'never again! to hell with this! he told us 5 mins and there we were walking like crazy people in the heat when we could've caught a taxi! 5 mins my ass. it was 10mins! at least!!' she was still talking about it this morning when my dad suggested that they should go and visit some other relo's place. i noticed that this time he made sure he wasn't standing near anything that could be used as a projectile weapon. so, i guess i didn't inherit my sense of adventure from my mums side. there's another piece of the puzzle solved then...

when we arrived at my aunties house yesterday afternoon, i could hear this loud thumping music coming from somewhere close by. they live in a gypsy ghetto and apparently the gypsies were having a wedding. i was itching to go have a look but my aunty was too scared. 'they're wild those people! they see you looking at them and they'll KILL you! don't go my girl. let it be. they're dangerous. even the police are scared of them...' oh, the naivety and the ignorance! i was spewing. they're so fascinating, they gypsies. no matter what country they live in, they still hold on to their traditions, dress, language, customs. they inter-marry, so their gypsiness gets passed down the generations. i love their nomadic lifestyle and the exoticness of their culture. their women are so beautiful! they have long black hair, they wear those gold hoop earrings, they wear the colourful long skirts and the ruffled tops, and they're all so dark and mysterious looking. except, for some reason, they have the deepest voices, even the youngest little girls with the cutest plaits in their hair, and when i hear them talking but i can't see them, i always think it's a man talking. they're so butch! and they don't give a shit about politeness and ladylikeness. they'll sit on the busses talking at the top of their voices, with their feet on the seats, and nobody dares to say anything to them. if that was happening in oz and i had to live with it, i think it would piss me off, but here, where i'm just a spectator, i find it so amusing! i love seeing the look on the old ladies faces when they get annoyed with them but because they think that they're dangerous people and are scared of them, they just screw up their mouth and turn red in the face, while the gypsies carry on, merrily breaking every social convention, knowing that noone's going to say anything to them. i'd love to join one of their camps for a month or so, just to see what it's like to live like a gypsy!

and now, further to my identity dilemma - i heard australia won the match against greece. i was so looking forward to watching the game, but i happened to be in transit at the time, from one relo's place to another (wouldyabelieve??), so i had to hear the news from jacs. 1-0. should i be happy that australia won, or should i be sad that greece lost? i guess, at the end of the day, it was a win-win, lose-lose situation, but, having heard that the greeks played oh so badly...weeeell...ozzie ozzie ozzie!!! oi oi oi!!!

last night we went out to dinner with my cousin and her family to this great greek tavern. i had these yum grilled mushrooms that i swear tasted (and kinda looked) like chops. i was too hungry to think about it too much. i've been living on greek salads for the last 3 days cos it's been too hot to eat anything cooked, so last night i was starving. after eating (and getting eaten by all the mozzies) the conversation turned to religion. interesting situation, with 3 avowed athiests at the table and 3 religious nuts going head to head. this morning we got up, my mum and aunty made vine leaf rolls with cabbage leaves (cabbage leaf rolls then?) i ate, had a shower, and escaped to the internet cafe where i am now. the aircon is on full blast, and i don't wana leave here. i'm not looking forward to walking home in the heat so i'm looking up the koran in english...don't ask. all that talk about religion last night piqued my interest. here's a little extract that i have to share with everyone...

"Men are the protectors and maintainers of women, because Allah has given the one more (strength) than the other, and because they support them from their means. Therefore the righteous women are devoutly obedient, and guard in (the husband's) absence what Allah would have them guard. As to those women on whose part ye fear disloyalty and ill-conduct, admonish them (first), (Next), refuse to share their beds, (And last) beat them (lightly); but if they return to obedience, seek not against them Means (of annoyance): For Allah is Most High, great (above you all)."

the bit that made me want to share this with all of yee is the "(And last)...beat them (lightly)" bit...

signing out from alexandria

with loadsalove,

emy
xxx
5月23日

look closely...

have you noticed something different about my blog??    
5月22日

born on a saturday...beware

hope i remember everything i wanted to write about today.
 
in my last entry i mentioned that later that night i'd be going out with my cousins john and george. we went for a drink at a nice bar in neapoli. we found a seat near a wall and got chatting. at some point in the conversation john points to something behind my head and tells me to be careful. i turned to look behind me and it was a maaaasive cricket. i told george who was sitting right in front of it to be careful cos it looked like it was eyeing him off to eat him and he ignored me. we continued with the conversation until george got off his seat and started waving his arms all over the place and shaking his head like a horse. the cricket had launched itself onto his head. i couldn't resist saying 'i told you so' and then john looks at me weirdly and asks me if i was born on a saturday. i thought that was a pretty random question to ask someone at a time like that but i answered him yes and asked him why. apparently there's a greek legend that says that when someone who is born on a saturday says something, it comes true. i'll have to start taking more care when i wish for something from now on cos it's not the first time it's happened.
 
the next day john, me and my uncle went to thessaloniki. john was going to donate some blood cells to a friend of a friend of a friend who's in hospital with leukemia, so i was guna go see a couple of relos i have there. they dropped me off and went to the hospital. in the meantime i took the opportunity to refamiliarise myself with family i hadn't seen for years and who i wouldn't have recognised if i saw them walking down the street. i sat with my cousin for an hour or so, talking about life in greece. they're so nationalistic here! it pisses me off. but having said that, i learnt a few things from him that have changed my opinion about greece. since seeing the beauty that the rest of europe has to offer, i couldn't bring myslef to speak as highly of greece as before (the islands aside). all i could see was the ugliness of the cement cities that larisa, thessaloniki and athens are. but now i know the reason behind all that concrete. greece is situated in one of the most seismically active regions in the world. there was actually an earthquake here in larisa a few days ago, but it happened while we were asleep and didn't feel anything. however, when the bigger earthquakes happen, and they happen relatively frequently, the only thing that prevents them from being as catastorphic as they could be is the material they use on their buildings i.e. the concrete. the other thing is the recent historical events that have shaped greece. modern greece is quite a young nation. firstly, greece was under turkish rule for almost 400 years, until 1821. they weren't allowed to speak the language, practise their religion, etc. then world war I happened and a couple of other wars in between. during world war II, greece was under siege by the nazis and mousolinis' henchmen. then, after they were chased away, while the greeks should've been focused on rebuilding the country, they were too busy killing each other in a civil war that lasted a few more years. since the junta dictatorship was overthrown sometime in the 70's, the country has started to reinvent itslef. i've forgiven greece's backwardness now, but not their backward mentality. the land is slowly being cultivated, companies are starting to sprout up here and there, but their nationalism and closed mindedness about anything foreign to them continues to persist.
  
after i finished talking to pavlo, i went upstairs to be fed by his mother, another greek aunty. after lunch, my cousin and uncle joined us and while they were being fed, my aunty brought out an album with old photos. i saw a picture of my mum and dad with the coolest retro clothes - bell bottom pants, a-line skirts, massive beards. and they were both was so slim and trendy! they had a life before they had me afterall! who woulda thought...
 
the next morning, thursday, me, my dad and my mum caught a bus to a village called kalithea, where another cousin lives. we spent thursday and friday night at their house. thursday night i went to a little bar with my cousin's son, pauly, and his girlfriend for a coffee, then we returned home around midnight and started watching lord of the rings. i started falling asleep around 2amish. the next day we had other relos visit us at my cousin's house, we had lunch with them (my cousin made fried liver and snail casserole...mm mmm!) and then the women went for a walk while the men went for a coffee. i sat and watched the rest of lord of the rings, then downloaded about 500 songs - jacs, we won't need to buy illegal music for yeeeears!
 
the next day we woke up relatively early and headed off. we got a lift to ellassona and caught a bus from there to another village called domeniko where another relative lives. these guys used to live in darwin, then moved down to melbourne for a few years before migrating to greece about 10 years ago. i fell in love with their house. it's situated right at the edge of town, at the top of a hill. from their front yard they have a view over all the fields, as far as the eye can see. the landscape reminds me of a patchwork quilt now that the farmers are cultivating the land. there are patches of dark green, bright green, matt green, yellowy green, and in between you'll see patches of the brightest fire-engine red from the millions of poppies, and patches of the liveliest canary yellow from the millions of er...yellow wildflowers, and patches of the hottest purple from the millions of er...purple wildflowers, and patches of the crispest white from the millions of delicate little camomile flowers. and the patchwork quilt that covers the lanscape is threaded with these colourful little flowers, so as you're driving these beautiful lil flowers are lined up along the road greeting you at every turn. and when you stop the car and get out to look in awe at the landscape, the smell of pure, fresh, camomile and pure, fresh, cow manure hits you with an amazing force. and from just about anywhere you look, the mighty olympus where zeus and apollo and aphrodite used to sit and drink tea, towers over the land, casting his shadow now like he did back then, in the time of the ancients.
 
it's an amazing and somehow humbling experience to be standing there amongst all this beauty, and to look out at a land where so much misery has taken place, misery that has shaped the lives of people i know, and people i don't know. when my uncle was driving us home from domeniko we passed this statue of a cross that was set at the edge of a small pine forest, which was irrigated with the blood of 118 men from surrounding villages that were lined up and executed by the germans. my uncle was telling us bits of the story as we were driving past the area where it happened. his father was amongst the men, but as he was trying to get away, he tripped, and the germans thought a bullet hit him. so he played dead until the germans left and that was how he managed to survive. he was the only lucky one. none of the others lived to see their wives, children, mothers, fathers, brothers or sisters again. that's what life was like in this country not too long ago, the country where my parents were born in, the country whose essence and history run thru my veins at the most subconscious level of my psyche. i'm proud to be part of a culture that's so rich and so tragic and has such a glorious past, from the days when pythagoras and aristotle used to roam athens in their long tunics, teaching the youth about philosophy, mathematics, physics and introducing democracy to the world, to the days when they overthru the turkish empire and took control of their land again, to the time when the university students lead the defeat against the military coup, the junta, and restored the rights of the people. the dilemma i have is that i belong neither here, nor there. greeks, mainly the ones that have migrated to other countries, have a saying - pity those who know two countries. there's a song that has the line 'in foreign lands i'm greek, and in greece i'm a foreigner' and that sums this dilemma up perfectly. in australia i never feel 100% aussie cos there's always more 'aussie' aussies than me. and in greece i never feel 100% greek cos there's more 'greek' greeks than me. i guess this is an identity dilemma more than anything else and one that only fellow half casts would understand, but since i plan to leave this journal as a legacy to my future kids (see? i'm already thinking of you and you haven't even been born yet!) i intend to make this as much for myself as for anyone else reading this so forgive me if i go on about personal issues unrelated to my travels.
 
after getting dropped off in larisa i went to my cousin geroge's house to watch the eurovision contest with him and his girlfriend. it's been all the rage here for the last couple of weeks cos it was held in athens this year since greece won the contest last year. we were sitting outside on the balcony cos it was a warm night, and i imagine half of larisa was doing the same, cos when the 'monsters from finland', as everyone was calling them, won, i swear i heard a collective gasp rise into the night. the monsters were pretty good, but their get-up was freakin hideous. i imagine the ambulance service was running left, right, and centre, trying to revive all the little old greek ladies that might've turned their tv's on at the wrong moment, just in time to see those freaks with their horns and monster masks sticking their forked tongues out. it was the talk of the town today. everyone had an opinion on the topic of the monsters from finland, and about our contestant, anna vissi, who's an old hand in the music industry. she failed so miserably the poor dear. greece won't be big enough for her to hide in for the next few weeks.
 
heading out for dinner with the family now. it's sunday, and it's my mums name day, so we're going to celebrate.
 
loadsalove to everyone in oz, and i'm slowly getting excited about coming back again. slowly. geely geely slowly...jacs, i salute you! hehe!
 
from larisa,
 
emy
xxx
5月16日

happy birthday emy. hope you find a husband...

i have something to write about today!! woohoooo! first up i'll start with a good news story. i weighed myself yesterday! i finally worked up the courage to get onto a set of scales for the first time in 6 months and it's all good news! yaaaaaaaaaee! all that walking and stair climbing has paid off! only a small payment, but it's still something. last time fran and i weighed ourselves at my aunties house (remember fran?) i vowed i'd never eat chocolate again and that i'd never get on a set of scales again. but i didn't stop eating chocolate, and i did get on a set of scales. i was 59kg in november last year (can you believe it!!) and i'm 54 now! can you believe THAT!? and that's from 3 independant scales. i had to triple check to make sure. let's see how long it's guna last though, with 2 greek aunties doing culinary experiments on me every chance they get. actually, i should probably check again today, after the feast we had in the village yesterday for my birthday. my parents cleaned out every butcher in larisa. people around here will be going hungry cos my parents bought out all the meat. they bought 8 kilos of lamb, 8 kilos of pork, 5 kilos of squid, and 10 kilos of bread!!!! plus all the cakes and sweets and spinach pies and vine leaf rolls and salads and potatoes that everyone brought for me, the token vegetarian. when one of my cousins found out i was a vegie she asked my dad, 'from what? does she have a medical condition?'. we could've fed the whole village. there were two spits going, another bbq with the squid and the potatoes, and the tables were full of salads and other stuff. and just about everything got eaten...
 
...there were 30 of us there. every time a new person rocked up i'd ask my mum, 'is that an uncle/aunty, a cousin or a friend?' turns out i was related to all of them. i can't remember the last time i was surrounded exclusively by 30 people i was related to. i was calling my cousins 'aunty or uncle', my aunties and uncles 'cousin', i was forgetting names and occassionaly i'd even get it right. i haven't seen these people since i was 12 and there were soooo many of them! it was great. (except for the bit where they'd wish me a happy birthday in one breath, and wish a husband upon me with the next. i was guna clock someone if i heard it one more time. bloody wogs. 'you know emy, it's great and all that you've travelled all over europe and that other place miroko, mariko, morocco or whatever you called it - i haven't even been to athens - but (siiiigh)...you're not married yet. what a pity (siiiiiiiiiigh)...oh well, never mind, hopefully you'll find someone soon (siiiigh)...). 
 
they came from all over greece to be there for the day. the party came too late for a couple of the brothers, and it's likely to be the last time the rest of them are all together also so it was a happy occasion with a tinge of sadness. at one stage my grandmother got up and started dancing (noone knows what song was playing in her head, cos she wasn't dancing to whatever was playing on the radio) then a couple of her sons and daughters took her hand and started dancing with her, then a couple of their sons and daughter joined in also. it was unreal to see 3 generations of one family together, with the 4th generation standing in the sidelines appreciating how significant the moment was for the other 3.
 
after gorging on all that food, it was time to cut the cake. i started making a speech and then my grandmother cut in and sabotaged it. she had us all laughing for a few moments, then i continued with my speech, thanking everyone for coming from all areas of greece, and giving my parents a special thank you for supporting me on my travels, and then everyone started getting all teary. after cutting the birthday cake, and all the other cakes that everyone bought, it was time for a group photo. we took the chairs outside and lined up like a footy team posing for a team photo, with mt olympus as our backdrop. considering there were 30 of us, it didn't take as long to organise as one would expect. the only person missing was my brother.
 
in all, there was lots of eating, drinking and reminiscing. it was the first time since returning to greece that i actually felt i was IN greece. i couldn't believe we were all together again, after so many years. there were memories hidden in all corners of the house. when they started the fire, the smell of the smoke rising in the air reminded me of the hours we'd spend every year making canned peaches and there's a spot in the backyard where we killed a chicken one year for easter and i can still picture it running around in the backyard with its head cut off. and then they wonder why i turned vegetarian...and as much as these family obligations are a pain in the behind now, it kills me to know that i might never again lay eyes on the mighty olympus with his layers of snow, or walk the streets where we used to play as kids. one of the cousins brought a bag full of unripe plums, and it brought a tear to my eyes when i saw them. a group of about 10 of us used to roam the whole village looking for plum trees, and sometimes we'd find them in peoples yards and, in the middle of stealing their plums, the old ladies would hear us and come chasing us with a broom, calling us every name under the sun. then we'd sit there and share them all equally amongst us and on the way home we'd see some of the old ladies sitting at someones doorstep, gossiping about the hot old men walking past or sumn, and whose plums we'd just finished stealing without them knowing. they'd usually see the plums falling out of our pockets and ask us for some (apparently they lower blood pressure) and we'd look at each other trying not to laugh and give them a handful.
 
the night before the actual party, my cousin yianni and i went to the bouzoukia. the bouzoukia are a typical greek night out, except there's bouzoukia, and then there's bouzoukia. we went to the bouzoukia, which are also known as the doghouses. my cousin reckons it's because the singers sound more like howling dogs than singers, but i think it's more to do with the sleaziness off the place. regardless, i had a great night. people started off throwing carnations at the singers (most of them young girls dressed in skirts so short they had to keep pulling them down so we wouldn't see what they had for breakfast), and then they moved on to smashing plates. it was unreal! they were playing all the old music i like and when it really kicked off, my cousin bought us a stack of plates also and we sat there smashing them together. oh jacs, you would've loved it!! the plates are made out of plaster, which isn't what i was expecting at all, but it made them easier to break. i took all my frustrations out on the poor plates. then i got up and danced a bit, then we smashed some more plates, and finally we decided to call it a night at about 3.30 in the morning cos we had to be up again at 7am to go to the village to put the finishing touches before the guests started arriving.
 
today i got up at about 10 and went for coffee with my other cousin yioryo. i didn't get a chance to talk to him properly the last two times we popped into greece, so it was great to get a whole 3 hours with him this time. tonight i'm guna go out with him and yianni again for a few hours and tomorrow...i'll probably come back to the intcaf again! living life in the fast lane, i am.
 
loadsalove to everyone and hope you're all getting ready for my welcome home party in a month or so!
 
PS fran, you know how we were joke-talking about opening up a hostel in melbourne? i reckon we go ahead with it. if you check out hostelworld and read the ratings for some of the hostels around melbourne, you'll see a huge gap in the market. try find some sponsors for us by the time i get back and we can get serious about it!
 
signing out from larisa once again,
 
emy!
xxx
5月13日

won't somebody come take me home...? where's home?

got nothing to write about today. this is torture. i spend all day looking for ways to get away from the relos. yesterday i caught a train to thessaloniki. i went to the train station and asked the lady there where the next train was going. she asked me where i wanted to go and i told her i wanted to go whereever the next train was going. she looked at me strange like she thought i was joking, but then she looked again and realised i wasn't. turns out the next train was going to thessaloniki, so that's where i ended up. when i got on the train, i went to find my seat, and found an american sitting in it. i explained that he had the right seat number in the wrong carriage, then offered to let him sit there so he wouldn't have to move all his gear around again. his partner was sitting in another ladies seat so i asked the lady if she would be happy to swap seats also. her comment, 'should we do the whole "generous greek" thing' pretty much summarises the attitude of these people. i asked her why we shouldn't and she gave me a look that said, 'all that effort!' in the end, the americans went and sat in their seats in the right carriage, but only after moving half the greek military around who had occupied their seats. that's what i get for trying to be helpful...they get to sit in a carriage full of men in uniform and what do I get?? i shouldn't complain. i got to sit next to a young chinese dude who's studying in thessaloniki and he spent the whole trip showing me photos of china on his laptop, and inspiring me to add it to my evergrowing list of destinations to conquer.
 
when i got to thessaloniki, i went in search of food. all the cafeterias lining the beach were packed with perfect people sitting around twirling their hair or their komboloy (worrybeads). that's all they seem to do here. sit around and drink coffee and gossip. hours of fun. i found this little pub called murphies (jacs, you know why i had to mention the name) and had an iced chocolate, killed some time then found an internet joint nearby and chatted to jacs for a couple of hours. she was filling me in on the goss as it was taking place and we were cracking each other up every few minutes. we were having such a stimulating computer conversation that i lost track of time and nearly missed the last bus back to larisa.
 
can i tell you a funny/cute thing that happened when i was at the internet cafe in thessaloniki? there were these 2 little boys there playing computer games (the 2nd international pass time in greece after coffee). one of them rings his mum up and puts on his sweetest voice. 'hi mum, how are you? um...nick and i are together...oh, and nick says hello to you too...and he was just wondering...oh, um...i was wondering also...since it's our last day together...is it ok if we got to the internet cafe and play some computer games for a while??...what do you mean no! why, no? we won't be long. come on mum...pleeease! nick says please too. oh, come on mum!...ok, fine then. i'll be home soon'. the little shit! he was calling his mum from the intcaf to see if she was ok with him going to the intcaf. when i left 3 hours later, they were still there playing computer games. i had to laugh... ah! those were the days!
 
 
 i finally left the internet joint, caught a bus to the main bus station, bought my ticket and ran to the bus which was already backing out of the terminal. i got back to larisa around midnight and was met by my uncle and my dad. i was planning to sleep at my uncles house last night but i got back so late that i had no time to grab the things i'd need so i ended up sleeping at my aunties again. i was tossing and turning all night and i finally fell asleep around 5am. i was having some bizzare dreams that i can't remember now, but i remember that they kept me up all night. the folks all cleared out around 10.30 this morning and i finally gave up trying to sleep and got up. i had a shower and finally called mark (PS mark, you realise that was the phone call i've been meaning to make since your birthday?). it was good to hear a familiar voice and catch up on the goss from back home after not hearing his voice for so many months. then my mum and my aunty returned from their walk, then my uncle came and picked me up and gave me a lift to their house where i had a yuuuum spinach pita that my aunty made. then everyone slowly started dropping off for their midday siesta, and i slowly started going stir crazy. don't know how i'm guna cope for the next month without my mates here. the internet cafe has become my safe haven so be expecting blog updates every 34 minutes or so (except, cleary, there's not much happening here so i'll have to start making up material for your enjoyment). i'm going to be on a first name basis with everyone here (and probably most internet cafes around greece) by the time i leave.
 
when i was at my uncles house, my aunty asked me how i slept last night and i told her shithouse. so she did this thing we call xematiasma (she un-evileyed me). you get a dish of water and drop some oil into it, then you gotta blesses the water with some mystical prayer and watch how the oil disperses to figure out if someone put the evileye on the person. greeks usually do this if you have a headache, or if you can't sleep or for other small ailments. when she saw that the oil had become so dilluted that it had practically disappeared, she brought the dish over and made me dip my finger into it 3 times, then told me to eat the dressing from my finger, then put a drop of it on my forehead. she reckons i'd been evileyed big time. bloody greeks. i better get a good nights sleep after all that. everytime we pass a church she'll do the sign of the cross 6 times. 6 times! do you know how many churches there are in greece?????? in the towns, on average, you're likely to pass one every 3 minutes or so. her poor hand gets no rest. i knew they were a pretty religious lot the greeks, but i had no idea it was this bad. jacs spun out when she saw the amount of churches there are in santorini. the other day when i went out to volo with my cousins (interval here: we had the best icecream and chocolate souffle - worth every damn calorie i reckon) we got talking about religion and whether they're religious or not. my younger cousin steph reckons he's only as religious as he needs to be so he doesn't get allienated from the community. apparently if you're obvious in your atheism here, people don't wana know you and employers don't want you working for them. and then they sit there criticising muslims for being extreme. what hypocrisy. religion - you gota love it. on that note, before i forget again, when we were staying in kusadaci in turkey, there was a mosque nearby. everytime the immamm would start his call to prayer, there was a dog that lived nearby that would pray with him. no shit. if the immamm stopped to take a breath, the dog would stop too. when the immamm started again, the dog would start howling again too. then one night, after a few drinks on a night out, myself and this young guy from sydney returned to the hotel and were sitting outside waiting for the rest of the group to return. the dog and the immamm started praying again and i made a comment about how much i loved the sound of the immamm praying. this started us on a conversation about religion and how ridiculous most religions are with their silly rules and expectations. so michael and i decided to found our own, with our own rules. while we were sitting there listening to the dog howling and the immamm preaching and we were trying to figure out the criteria for our new religion, a rooster pipped up as well, in tune with the immamm and the dog. we couldn't stop laughing! the timing couldn't have been better if it had been planned. we decided to include both of these animals in our new religion. we decided that the dog would be the prophet, and the rooster would be the spreader of the word of the religion that would henceforth be known as K9chickenism. obviously it would be against K9chickenism to eat eggs, or any other chicken by-products. dogs would be holly and revereed animals, and everytime one came across a dog in the street, one would have to stop and bow before it. why not i say? in india it's cows, in islam pork is evil...how do either of those make any more sense that K9chickenism??
 
oh fran! creed just came on!!! wish you were here chicka! never mind, they've moved on to some crappy music now. and by the way fran, yes i'm serious about the arabic thing in morocco. life's too short.
 
bye from larisa again, and people, feel free to send me heaps of emails in the next few weeks. i'll have plenty of time to answer them...
 
love you all!
 
emy
xxx
5月10日

a touch of home

after getting carried away at the internet, we had to race back to the bus station to make it for the 10pm bus to larisa from athens. we hailed a taxi and made it there 15mins before departure, bought our tickets and claimed our seats. the lack of sleep we were suffering from was most evident when the bus made a 15min pit stop and we opted to sleep rather than eat. can you believe it? even jacs didn't move off her seat...
 
we arrived in larisa at 2.30am and caught a taxi to my aunties house. my cousin and mum heard the taxi pull up and greeted us at the front door. they opened the door, showed us the floor we were to sleep on for the night and then it was lights out for all of us. except it took us ages to fall asleep so we were still tired when we woke up at 9 the next morning.
 
and then breakfast started arriving. it started with toasted sandwiches and moved on to vine leaf rolls that i'd put in a special request for a few weeks ago. jacs devoured about 20 of them, and that was just breakfast (sorry jacs, i'm allowed to exaggerate now, you're not here to kill me. i'll deal with the consequences when i get home). can't really remember what we did after food. probably i had a shower and jacs didn't (sorry again my lovely!). oh, no, i lie. JACS had a shower and i didn't (i know, i can't believe it either) and then we headed out. jacs went to the town square and made a couple of phone calls, and i went to see my other cousins and my grandmother who hasn't been feeling well. then i met up with jacs at the net for a few hours and then we met up with my cousins and went for a drink to neapoli, another square that's full of bars and cafes. the music was torturing poor jacs all night. they were playing all this dance music and jacs was itching to get up and dance, but noone dances here. don't know what's wrong with these people. i can only guess it's because they don't wana mess up their do's. jacs, i know it's been a few days since we partied and i know it's killing you. i'll make it up to you when i get back to melbourne. i still owe you a night out to make up for missing your birthday back in september, and you'll owe me a night out for missing my birthday next week, so that's 2 already. not that we really need an excuse these days.
 
after neapoli we decided to play pool for a few hours. boys versus girls. the boys whipped our butts. and then we called it a night. back to our floor bed.
 
the next morning jacs got up early and tried to trick me into waking up too by telling me it was later than it really was. shame on her for fooling me once with that trick, but she wasn't guna fool me twice. i turned over and went back to sleep for another hour or so, then we got up and ate. cornflakes with honey, then vine leaves. after wasting a few hours getting ready, me, jacs and my cousin stephano drove out to my mothers village to drop my grandmother off. we spent a bit of time out there and returned home to get ready and go for coffee again. the idea was to go out to volo, a seaside town, but the weather turned by the time we returned so the plan was scrapped. jacs was hungry again by the time we returned, so we sneaked into the kitchen and proceeded to polish off the last of the vine leaves. when my cousins heard us in the kitchen, they joined us and quickly grabbed a few vine leaves before jacs ate them all. then jacs and i got a lift to the internet cafe again so jacs could find a flight to egypt. we spent a few hours there before meeting up with my cousins and heading to neapoli again to go to this pizza joint they took me, fran and my brother to last time we were here. they make the best pizza here. we called it a night after eating and when we returned home jacs and i lay on the floor talking for a few hours. she was due to leave the next day, yesterday, and it seemed like a fitting time to reflect on the experiences of the last few weeks. i couldn't believe i was saying goodbye to another travel buddy. another turning point again...
 
when i arrived in greece this time round, the feeling was so different to how it was the last time fran and i were here in winter to change over our clothes. we were so happy to be back in a familiar environment and so excited to find all those clothes in our suitcases. this time when i opened my suitcase i got all teary. i looked at some things i'd bought along the way, mainly jewellery and handbags from france and italy and i couldn't believe I was there, that I had bought those things myself. when we were here last time, we knew we still had months of travel ahead of us, new experiences to look forward to, new adventures to be part of, people to meet, places to be, mountains to climb, tears to shed, frustrations to endure, trains to miss, busses to catch. this time all i have to look forward to is going home. no more adventures, no more hostels, no more waking up at 5am to the immamm praying, no more churches, no more museums, no more snow, no more castles, no more camel treks. no more nothing, no more something, no more anything. i'm so not ready to give up this life just yet. don't know that i'll ever be, but right now i know for sure that i'm not. and the worst of it is that i'm still away from home. returning to greece has given me a taste of what to expect when i get home, and i don't like it. it's true, nothing changes, not in larisa, not in melbourne. you fall into old habits so easily. somtimes i wonder whether i ever left.
 
yesterday we woke up late and had a shower while my aunty got breakfast ready for us. then we hung around til 3pm and stephano dropped us off at the train station so jacs could catch her 4.10 train to athens and then her 12.50am plane to cairo. we had a quick drink and then said goodbye for another month. after jacs left i met my other cousin, yianni, and my parents and we drove out to my village to look at the house i lived in for two and a half years. i barely recognised it. they've been renovating it for the last year and a half, and it looks totally different to how it was when we were living in it. they're getting it ready for my birthday party on sunday so the men spent a bit of time doing a few odd jobs, while the women weeded the garden, then my cousin yianni drove my parents and i out to his farm to feed the animals. he's got a bunch of pigs, a bunch of guard dogs, a few chickens and a massive turkey. when we started feeding the pigs, they went mental. jacs would've been proud of their eating skills. i thought they were going to push the fence over to get to the food. scary stuff. and these pigs ain't cute little pink babe things with curly tales. they're these massive ugly black wild boars with no personality and no manners. they were jumping all over each other to get to the bread and corn. exciting stuff, i know.
 
when we returned to the house, my grandmother was in a bad way. she's been having these mini panic attacks lately, telling everyone that she's going to die soon and that she doesn't want to. i found out she's 96. maybe she's having premonitions. so we packed her into the car with the intention of taking her to the hospital. along the way we managed to distract her with turkish music and jokes, and she forgot her panic attack. when we returned to larisa we ate, sat around talking til about 11.30pm, then yianni and i went for a drink to neapoli.
 
when he dropped me off at my aunties house at about 1am, i found my cousins watching tv. don't know when people sleep around here. bugger that. i went straight to bed and didn't get up till midday today. jacs, i love you heaps and i miss you already, but you have no idea how happy i was to not share a bed with you last night. it's the first proper night's sleep i've had in about 2 weeks.
 
on that note jacs, hope you have a great time in egypt. stay safe, don't forget the shopping list i gave you and that special favour i asked of you (just don't enjoy it too much you hear!), and i'll be seeing you back in melbourne soon. safe travels my girl and keep me updated with the goings on where you're at. love you and loved travelling with you. goodbye my friend...
 
and goodbye to everyone else too.
 
from larisa with love,
 
emy
xxx
5月7日

we WERE the party

had we already gone partying when i wrote my last entry?? no? well, let me tell ya! we partied. we started off at a club called town. we were pretty much the only ones there. there were a couple of people sitting around at the bar but we were the only ones dancing, so the owner took it upon himself to reward us with free alcohol for the rest of the night. not a bad effort. we paid for one drink each and then proceeded to drink the bar dry for free. how could it not turn out to be a good night? music, friends, drinks...what more could a girl want? when we'd had enough of being spoilt we went next door to murphies irish pub for another quick dance before deciding to call it a night. when we got there though we bumped into a girl, raka, that had been staying at the same hotel as us in kusadaci and who i'd become temporary mates with. we hung around with her for a while too, then we got hungry and went in search of food. we stopped at a sandwich joint on the way home and managed to get freebies there too. i asked some guy that had just ordered his food if the food was any good there and he opened my hand, put 10 euros worth of coins in it and then walked off. i called him back and he ignored me. what's a girl to do? i paid for the food, then tipped the sandwich people what was left of the money. either everyone was feeling very generous that night, or we looked really poor.
 
so when we finally woke up the next day we did nothing. we had a hangover lunch, then used the internet for a couple of hours, before returning to the hotel and getting ready to do it all again. we were hoping to return early enough to get a couple hours of sleep and a proper meal before we went out but the sleep bit didn't happen. as for the proper meal bit, we went to a restaurant across from the hotel and i wish we'd discovered it earlier. the food was spot on, the service was great, and the prices...well, considering it's santorini, even they weren't too bad.
 
so, dinner, shower, night out. the second night out turned out to be interesting. again, we started at town. again, the alcohol was free pretty much the entire night. we got talking to a couple of guys there and dancing with some others. when we got bored at town, we decided to move next door to murphies again. and this is where things got interesting. we were refused entry. apparently they don't accept albanians there and the guys were albanian. i couldn't believe how blatantly racist they were. i was fuming. we returned to town, danced some more then took off to the sandwich joint again. i still couldn't believe what had happened. i've heard of people not being allowed entry into a club because they're too drunk, or have the wrong shoes on, or the wrong colour tie, but because they're albanian?? many greeks have had a thing against albanians since they started migrating (legally and illegally) into greece about 10 years ago. i knew this but it still shocked me to see how shamelessly racist they were being. when the owner at the sandwich joint came over and started talking to us i asked him what the deal was, and he defended the manager of the club. turns out he's also the owner of club. anyway, i stayed there chatting to him about life in greece and other crap in general for about an hour, and by the time i began my long journey uphill, it was still clear as mud to me how people think.
 
i returned to the hotel where jacs was already fast asleep and fell into bed. a few hours later my body clock told me that 5 hours of sleep was enough so i got up. oh, actually no. it wasn't MY body clock. it was jackie's. we stayed in bed talking for a couple of hours, then we decided to get up and get ready to check out. the owner started hasseling us to leave too, so we speed it up a little and managed to check out only 3 hours past check-out time.
 
we made our way to the quad bike shop, hired a quad and set off into the sunset together. the owner at the qaud shop let us leave our backpacks in the shop and agreed to stay past closing time to give us enough time to ride to oia, where the sunset viewing takes place every night, and back again without rushing. the shop closed at 8pm and we didn't get back til 9pm. i was pretty touched at his self sacrifice. AND he was albanian. the greeks are probably just afraid of decent customer service so instead of trying to beat it or join it, they knock it.
 
anyway...the quad bike adventure. we took the quad for a ride to a couple of little beachside villages that i hadn't visited last time i was in sntorini. pity too cos they were beautiful. one of them reminded us of dahab, with the beach on one side and the cafes with all their bamboo umbrellas on the other. except the scenery was a touch different here. the sand at the beach is black, for one. and the mountains in the distance are greek islands, not saudi arabia. and noone, let alone everyone, knows your name by the time you finish having lunch.
 
after stuffing our faces again, we went for another drive. jacs did all the driving, i did all the freaking out. she took a couple of turns pretty tightly and skidded to a stop right in front of a sign with the words "i love life - i drive safely" written on them, while the car that nearly collected us from behind looked on in disapproval. even after this, i was happy to let her drive. it was freezing cold as the sun was going down and she made the perfect windbreak. when we arrived at oia we parked the quad and walked to the tip of the island where the sun had already started its descent into the mediterranean. first we stopped for a quick drink then everyone gathered around the streets to watch the show. there was nowhere near as many people as last time. we even managed to get a good seat. and nobody clapped at the end of it! that was half the fun last time! so we walked back to our little dune buggy and drove home along the coast, singing at the top of our voices, this time managing to avoid most pot holes and oncoming vehicles.
 
we dropped the quad off, caught a taxi to the port and waited around for a while for the ferry to arrive. fran, arthur, let me tell you about this ferry. pure luxury! we had reclining seats this time - none of this outside, freezing our asses of on a concrete block business. the reclining seats were like the seats in the 1st class area of the airplanes. they were so long that even when i fully stretched out i still didn't take up the whole seat. i was almost cursing when we reached pireaus cos i was so comfortable.
 
when we arrived in pireaus, we caught the metro to a HI hostel in athens, checked in and went for breakfast to a restaurant nearby. with the amount of food we had, i didn't think we'd need to eat again for the rest of the day. then we went for a walk to kill some time  before catching a bus to the airport. my parents arrived from australia on friday and they thought i was still in santorini so they were a little surprised to see mestanding in front of them when they came thru the gate. my mum turned on the waterworks and couldn't stop hugging me. it was so good to see them again after more than 9 months. the poor buggers had a hell of a flight to get here. apparently there were a couple of medical incidents on the plane, and just after their stopover in singapore the plane had to be rerouted to KL to drop off some lady that got really sick. then they made a quick stop in dubai before heading straight to athens. they wre so tired by the time they arrived. my aunty and uncle were there to pick them up and they left almost as soon as they got to the airport. i only got to spend about 15mins with them, but it's 15mins more than they expected at the time.
 
after they left we caught the bus back to athens and went to the shops, and to a restaurant. we ate, we left. we returned to the hostel and went to bed nice and early. i was rapt. i always look forward to a good night's sleep, seeing as they're so few and far between these days, but i had the weirdest dream last night and a good night's sleep was not to be had. i had a dream that i was in jail for some reason and i was told that i was going to be executioned (is that a word??). they wouldn't tell me why and they wouldn't let me contact my parents to tell them that they were going to execution me so i was tossing and turning all night trying to figure out how i was going to get a message to my parents to say goodbye to them. wierd stuff.
 
this morning i got up early, had a shower, we packed our backpacks, checked out and went back to the nearby restaurant to eat again. we managed to cull our meal down to only one course. then we headed over to the acropolis to look at the rocks again. on the way there the city was full of cops in riot gear, and army cops. apparently there was going to be a peace demonstration at 3pm (kinda ironic) so the cops turned out in full riot gear in anticipation of er...riots. at a peace demonstration. we stood there perving at the men in uniforms for a while, then made our way to the rocks. while we were sitting around taking it all in, a bunch of japanese tourists came up and asked us if we were greek. i told them i was and they asked if they could have their photo taken with us - hehe. that was  a funny thing to do. they come to greece and get their photos taken with greeks to show their friends back home that they mingle with the locals.
 
after spending about an hour there (jacs thought she was having a bad hair day today so it took us that long to take a few photos, otherwise our trip would've lasted about half the time) we caught the train to another part of athens to go to the emirates offices so jacs can reschedule her departure date. it wasn't till we got there that we realised it's saturday today and all the office were closed. so we ate instead. then we caught the train back to our hostel and picked up our backpacks and made our way to the bus station in the hope of catching the 7pm bus to larisa. some nigerian dude driving by offered us a lift to the station and since we were running late and couldn't be bothered bussing it, we accepted. it wasn't till we got there that we realised that the 7pm bus only runs on fridays and sundays and that, again, today was saturday. then we found out that the next bus doesn't leave til 10pm and we had over 3 hours to wait around. so we dropped our backpacks off at the office in the station and went in search of an internet cafe. we finally found this one after asking about 6 people. now hopefully we'll be able to find our way back to the station by 9.30pm or we're stuck here for another night and as much as i've enjoyed athens (it's not as bad as i remembered it - i've been criticising it for the last 6 months but now that i'm back here it's not as dirty and unhospitable as i remembered it) i'm looking forward to seeing my parents and cousins. and all the clothes in my suitcase. i remember how excited fran and i got last time we were there and we saw all the clothes we forgot we had brought with us. it'll be good to wear a different pair of jeans and have more than 3 tops to chose from every day. and my aunties home cooked meals! mm mmmm! yoghurt with honey and walnuts, corn flakes with honey, pea casserol, lentil soup! can't wait. also can't believe i'm thinking about food again...it's all jackie's fault.
 
on that note, i'm guna finish up by saying a big welcome to my parents and thank you so much for coming all this way to see me. i love you and i can't wait to spend some quality time with you in your homeland.
 
lots of love from athens,
 
emy
xxx
5月3日

we know

we made it back to anzac house about 10mins before the bus was due to leave for kusadaci. i can't remember much about the trip except stopping for food and sleeping. when we arrived in ismir we had to wait for the owner of the hotel we'd be staying in, sezgin, to pick us up from the station and drive us to kusadaci. he arrived about 20mins later and drove us thru the winding roads and into kusadaci. after settling into our room we headed downstairs to the garden area and sat chatting to another guy, ibo, who helps out at anzac house and sezgin's, and who travelled on the bus with us from canakkale. later that night the hotel put on a bbq for us and we sat around with about 15 other aussies joking and sharing travel tales. a few of us decided to head out later that night but the after-dinner conversations distracted us. the group got smaller and smaller until there was only a few of us left. fran and jacs had an early night cos they had to be up early in the morning to go on a day trip out to pammukale, and i stayed up with a few other people til about 6am.
 
the next day the girls went on their day trip and when i finally woke up and got motivated to have a shower and get ready, i went for a walk around town. kusadaci's a nice town but there's not much there to hold your attention for long. i headed back and used the net til the girls returned. we got ready and went for dinner, then ibo and sezgin joined us and we went to an irish pub, jimmy's, a few doors down. the night started off with sezgin and ibo presenting me with a birthday cake. jacs had asked them the night before if they could organise something so i could celebrate my birthday while her and fran were still around. no mention of it was made again but they remembered. apart from my birthday, we had two other important events to celebrate that night. mine and fran's 9 month on-the-road annversary, and fran's going-away party. it was the last night, after so many months, that we would be together. fran was catching a bus back to istanbul the followng night and flying out later the next evening. the pub was packed with the strangest assortment of people. there was an irish guy dancing around in a tight aqua boob tube and mini skirt ensemble, his pot belly hanging over the waistband, grossing everyone out. we danced, we drank, we laughed, and when james blunt's 'goodbye my lover' or whatever it's called came on, we cried. it was a happy-sad occasion and a late and great night. then jacs headed home and fran and i walked down to the harbour and reminisced about the months that were. we were in disbelief that the journey we started on so long ago in a backyard in deer park had finally come to an end at a marina in turkey. did we really climb to the top of the eiffel tower? did we really eat cheese sandwiches inside the colossium? did we really sleep under the stars in the sahara? was that really us, or did someone describe those events to us so vividly that they bacame our story? did we fall asleep and, by some freaky coincidence have the same dream, a dream that lasted for 9 whole months and took us thru the swiss alps to the french riviera, from the snow covered mountains in slovenia to the bullet riddled buildings of bosnia?
 
while we were sitting there thinking about all this, a fisherman in his little boat started speaking to us. his english was pretty poor but he spoke greek so we managed to hold a conversation for a couple of hours. this guy has been a fisherman for over 40 years and he still loves it. he fishes til about 3 every morning,  then heads to his shop to open up, sells his fish til about 1 in the afternoon, then goes home. he reckons the sea is the perfect refuge from his wife. 'here i am free. i can drink my beer, smoke my joint, no problem. nice and quiet. at home, the wife nah nah nah nah all the time.' he bought us chocolate and made us tea, then offered us some of his hash. when i asked him how he learnt his greek he told me he spent 5 years in greece. i asked him whereabouts and he mentioned larissa. when i told him i have family in larisa, his first comment was 'larisa has a big jail'. apparently he spent 2 years in there for smuggling drugs...
 
after some more polite chit-chat, fran and i started our walk home. our hotel was at the top of a 45degree angled hill and it was a bastard to climb. we went to bed as soon as we returned and got up late the next day. fran packed her backpack for the last time, then we went shopping for a while and jacs went to the internet cafe. later on we all met up for a quick coffee before we had to return to the hotel so fran could get a lift to the bus station. while we were at the cafe, 2 young turkish kids came around with a set of scales. at first i thought they were trying to sell them, until i saw jacs get off her seat and take her jacket off. she stepped on the scales and quickly stepped off, but not quickly enough. the little kid loudly announced her weight to the whole world and jacs nearly slapped him across the head. everyone at the cafe started laughing. then we retuned to the hotel and fran got a lift to the bus station. i couldn't believe i said goodbye to her then, but it really didn't hit me until the following morning when i woke up and her bed was empty.
 
jacs and i decided to go out again the night that fran left. we started off at a couple of other bars in the area and ended up at jimmy's again. the pub was almost empty but the night again turned out great and late.
 
the next day jacs and i crawled out of bed around lunchtime, and went and got something to eat. just as we were finishing our meal, another guy, rob, who was staying at the same hotel, joined us. then jacs went off and had a turkish hammam (a turkish bath where you get scrubbed and hosed down by a hairy turkish man, then massaged). rob and i stayed at the restaurant for a few more hours listening to a guy practising on his guitar in preparation for his performance later that night. we returned to the hotel around 9, got ready and returned to the restaurant with a few other people from the hotel for the turkish night, in the hope we would finally get a dose of turkish culture before we left turkey. the night was awesome. the live turkish music was pounding so loudly you couldn't help but get carried away with it. the restaurant provided the tables with tambourines that we were rattling in time with the turkish beat, and we were the only non-turks there. when the dancing started, from a distance it must have looked like a mass hari krishna gathering or sumn. everyone was working themsleves into a frenzy. the tables were cleared of people and there was no room to move. the start of each familiar song would bring a huge roar from the crowd and a smashing of the tambourines. it was an unforgettable night.
 
when we decided to go out last night, it was with the intention of having a few quiet drinks, listen to some music then head home for an early night. by the time the music finished at the tavern, there was no way we were going to be calling it a night. our blood was pumping with all the adrenaline from the turkish dancing. we continued our night at a another club, then walked back up the hill to our hotel in the hope of getting at least a couple hours of sleep before having to get up for our ferry to samos at 7am. when we returned to the hotel though, ibo was awake, talking to another guy that was with us for most of the night but had come home early, so we ended up sitting around with them til it was time to get ready and leave.
 
this morning we caught the bus to the ferry and arrived in samos around 10am. we were so tired. luckily this ferry ride was smooth, cos had it been as violently bumpy as the one from hurghada to dahab, i would have jumped overboard. when we arrived in samos we went and booked our tickets for santorini and then found accommodation. we're sharing a room with two south korean women, one of them funny as hell. her animated storytelling in her broken english had us in stiches ealier. after dropping our bags off, we went to get something to eat then returned and went straight to bed. we woke up around 8, joked around with our room mates for a while then came downstairs for dinner. it's just after midnight now and we have to be up again at 5.30am to catch our 6.30am ferry to mykonos and then to santorini. i can't remember the last time i slept for a whole 8 hours but i don't want to look back on my last few weeks and think how lucky i was that i got plenty of sleep. i'd rather look back and remember all the amazing nights i had instead.
 
update 2-5-06 from santorini
 
i didn't get to finish my blog in samos the other night cos the internet closed, so i'm completing this in santorini...
 
the trip from samos to santorini was uneventful. we left at 6.30am and arrived in santorini around 5.30pm. there were about 20 people at the port screaming for people to stay at their hotels so we chose one and got a lift to the hotel with him. we had a quick shower then headed out to find food and explore the town. after dinner we went for a walk so i could refamiliarise myself with the cafes and bars we visited last time. fran, that club where the cute barman worked? it's a jazz club now!! can you believe it?? where am i spos to party now? (although, there's a club called casablanca...du reckon that's a sign fran?? hehe!) and it's dead too, the bars were all empty last night! other than though, it's still the same. most of the bars are lined up in one narrow laneway so it didn't take us long to suss it all out and it would've turned out to be a pretty boring night if i hadn't missed my footing and gone ass over in front of everyone (do you remember murphy's pub, fran? right outside there! i missed a step and landed on all fours!). up until only 2 or 3 days ago i still had a lump on my forehead from walking into a window in canakkale. i tried to open what i thought was a shop door with my foot, but the door turned out to be a window and i nearly put my head thru it. (don't laugh fran. you remember what happened when you laughed last time). now this, and my insurance has just expired. jacs wants to hire quad bikes so we can ride into the sunset together (literally) but i'm not so sure that it's a good idea. apart from the fact that i've seen how she drives a car, i appear to be a bit accident prone the last couple of weeks...
 
so, after exploring santorini some more we returned to the hotel and got our first proper night's sleep in about a week. a whole 10 hours!! this morning we woke up about 11am and went in search of food again. our life seems to revolve around it. i've been hanging for a real greek vegetarian souvlaki and a real greek frappe, so we made that our mission for the day. i took jacs to a tavern that me, fran and my brother had a feast in last time and we gorged ourselves on real greek souvlakis. mm mmm! then we went shopping...
 
not sure what we'll be doing for the rest of the day, but in the next few days we'll be hiring the quad and also going on a day trip that i'd done last time and loved. then we need to figure out when we want to be in athens by. my mama and papa are arriving on friday, so i want to be back in larisa soon after that.
 
that's about it for now but before i sign out i want to make a personal dedication to fran, my nomad sister.
 
fran, i know i don't need to say much for you to know what i'm talking about. i know that you know, you know that i know. so, thank you for the memories, thank you for the chats, thank you for the adventures and thank you for everything in between. we did it! WE did it!
 
here are some travel quotes that probably summarise everything better than i ever could.
 
"Tourists don't know where they've been, travelers don't know where they're going." -- Paul Theroux
 
"The traveler sees what he sees; the tripper sees what he has come to see." -- G.K. Chesterton 1874-1936
 
"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page." -- St. Augustine
 
"People don't take trips . . . trips take people." - John Steinbeck
 
'There are no foreign lands. It is the traveler only who is foreign.' - Robert Louis Stevenson
 
Stendhal, on travel: "It is not enough for a landscape to be interesting in itself. Eventually there must be a moral and historic interest."
 
Paul Fussell, "All the pathos and irony of leaving one's youth behind is thus implicit in every joyous moment of travel: one knows that the first joy can never be recovered, and the wise traveler learns not to repeat successes but tries new places all the time."
 
Paul Fussell, "Travel at its truest is thus an ironic experience, and the best travelers ... seem to be those able to hold two or three inconsistent ideas in their minds at the same time, or able to regard themselves as at once serious persons and clowns."
 
"Every exit is an entry somewhere else". - Tom Stoppard
 
"Travelling is a brutality. It forces you to trust strangers and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends. You are constantly off balance.
Nothing is yours except the essential things - air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky - all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it." -Cesare Pavese
 
G. K. Chesterton, "The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a foreign land."
 
"If we are always arriving and departing, it is also true that we are eternally anchored. One's destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things." -- Henry Miller
 
"Travelling is like flirting with life. It's like saying, 'I would stay and love you, but I have to go; this is my station.'"-- Lisa St. Aubin de Terán
 
"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." -- Robert Louis Stevenson
 
"I have found out that there ain't no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them." -- Mark Twain
 
"Here I am, safely returned over those peaks from a journey far more beautiful and strange than anything I had hoped for or imagined - how is it that this safe return brings such regret?" -- Peter Mathissen, US writer
 
"So much of who we are is where we have been." -- William Langewiesche, US writer.
 
"One always begins to forgive a place as soon as it's left behind." -- Dickens
 
"People travel to faraway places to watch, in fascination, the kind of people they ignore at home." -- Dagobert D. Runes, US writer
 
Samuel Johnson, "All travel has its advantages. If the passenger visits better countries, he may learn to improve his own. And if fortune carries him to worse, he may learn to enjoy it."
 
Thomas Gray (1739) on viewing the Alps: "There are certain scenes that would awe an atheist into belief, without the help of other argument."
 
"For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly; to come down off this feather-bed of civilisation, and find the globe granite underfoot and strewn with cutting flints." -- Robert Louis Stevenson
 
"One of the gladdest moments of human life, methinks, is the departure upon a distant journey into unknown lands. Shaking off with one mighty effort the fetters of habit, the leaden weight of routine, the cloak of many cares and the slavery of home, man feels once more happy." -- Sir Richard Burton
 
"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness." -- Mark Twain
 
"An involuntary return to the point of departure is, without doubt, the most disturbing of all journeys." -- Iain Sinclair
 
there's only one thing left to say:
 
another turning point
the fork's stuck in the road
time grabs you by the wrist
directs you where to go
 
so make the best of this test
and don't ask why
it's not a question but a lesson learnt in time
 
it's something unpredictable
but in the end is right
i hope you had the time of your life
 
so take the photograph
and still-frames in your mind
hang it on a shelf
in good health and good times
tattoos of memories
and dead skin on trial
for what it's worth
it was worth all the while
 
it's something unpredictable
but in the end is right
i hope you had the time of your life
 
(this song got us thru some of the roughest patches and became our travel anthem. what would we have done without it fran? bratislava just wouldn't have been the same!)
 
on a final note, it's been real. and, i have one wish for you my nomad sister - may you NEVER settle back into normal life and may your feet never stop itching!
 
goodnight maude...i miss you.
 
with lots of love from santorini, again,
 
emy
xxx
4月26日

dahab shattered, paradıse lost - lessons just don't get learnt

we had an 0745 start yesterday mornıng. what a day ıt would turn out to be. lıttle dıd we know ın the mornıng that later that nıght we would be at a commemoratıon ceremony commemoratıng more than the anzacs.
 
our tour bus met us at the hotel (anzac house - hıghly hıghly recommend ıt!) and we set off to the ferry whıch would take us back across the sea of marmara to the town of eceabat and across to gallıpolı (ıntermıssıon: ı'm not purposely erasıng the dot on the ı - the turkısh alphabet has two ı's - one wıth dot, one wıthout, and the one wıthout ıs ın the place of the normal ı so ıt saves me searchıng for the other one). along the way the guıde gave us a bıt of ınfo about how ıt all happened. we saw the place where the anzacs where spos to have landed, then we vısıted anzac cove, where the actual landıng took place at dawn on the 25th of aprıl, 91 years ago. the anzacs had no chance. they were surrounded by mountaıns, prıme posıtıon to be fıred upon from above.
 
the guıde gave us 20mınutes to sıt there on the shore and reflect. some of the oldıes (the bus was full of them, but jeez they were a laughy bunch!) ran theır hands thru the water whıle jacs and ı sat there on the grass thınkıng about the massacre that took place there so long ago. ıt was a movıng exprıence, even for us 3 gırls who don't have a drop of australıan blood runnıng thru our veıns. ıt's hard to sıt there, lookıng at the place where so many mothers and fathers lost theır boys, wıves theır husbands, chıldren theır fathers, and not be moved by ıt all.
 
anzac cove was a hıve of actıvıty when we vısıted ıt. they were settıng up stadıum seatıng, the stage where the ceremony would be takıng place, lıghtıng, sound, ambulance tents, army tents, securıty checkpoınts, coffee stalls and portaloos, and armed men were sıttıng ın convoy utes every few hundred meters. 
 
we stopped at one of the many many cemetarıes that are peppered around the land and took a moment to look at the headstones. my eyes were waterıng by the end of ıt. grave after grave wıth boys as young as 17 lyıng under them and sımple ınscrıptıons on them (my only darlıng son - you'll never be forgotten). we also vısted the ataturk memorıal next to the cemetary, where they have engraved a very touchıng speech of hıs ınto a massıve plaque:

"Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives you are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours. You the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries wipe away your tears. Your sons are now in our bosom and are at peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well."

and thıs perfectly sums up the attıtude of the turks towards us to thıs day. we have been welcomed by chıldren as young as 7 or 8, to adults as old as 80. theır attıtude ıs 'you dıd what you had to do, we dıd what we had to do, and now ıt's all ın the past and we're all brothers. sıt and have a drınk wıth me and let me welcome you to my country'. we have felt humbled so many tımes ın the 7 odd days we've been here. especıally here ın çanakkale, as soon as they see that you're an englısh speaker they'll ask you ıf you're 'an anzac', and sayıng 'yes' has proved to be the best ıce breaker.

 
we also vısted a war museum, lone pıne and the new zealand memorıal sıte. for some reason our guıde skıpped the turkısh memorıal. ı would've lıked to have seen that. before stoppıng for lunch we also went to some trenches. we got to jump down ınto them and have a walk around, and ıt was surprısıng how shallow and narrow they were, and how close to the road they were posıtıoned. apparently everythıng about them ıs orıgınal except the wood that lınes the walls whıch had to be replaced cos ıt had rotted away. ıt was hard to ımagıne people lıvıng and fıghtıng from such cramped quarters.
 
we stopped for a quıck lunch break, sang happy bırthday to one of the oldıes on the tour, then headed back to the ferry to get across to çanakkale agaın. we were hopıng to get a few hours sleep before the dawn servıce, but by the tıme we return, had a shower and got somethıng to eat, ıt was too late. we watched the movıe 'gallıpolı' downstaırs ın the hotel, then came and grabbed what we'd be needıng for the nıght and waıted for the bus to pıck us up at 10pm. we were dıvıded ınto groups, stuffed around at the hotel for a whıle longer, then caught the ferry across agaın. the ferry was full of anzac pılgrıms. most of us were wearıng gallıpolı t-shırts and warm fleecy jackets that we'd bargaıned for durıng the day wıth the aussıe flag on one sıde of our chest, and the gallıpolı emblem ın gold on the other. some of us were carryıng the aussıe and turkısh flags, others had the aussıe flag drapped over them.
 
when we were approachıng anzac cove our bus was stopped and a securıty dude got on to tell us that we would all be searched when we arrıved. we drove a whıle longer then parked the bus and got out. the cold aır hıt you as soon as the bus doors opened. our fleecy jackets were goıng to be no match for nature and ı was fınally goıng to get some of my moneys worth out of my sleepıng bag. ı've been carryıng the bastard for almost 9 months now and ı've only used hım 3 or 4 tımes. luckıly there weren't as many busses as last year thıs tıme cos ıt meant that we got to park relatıvely close by. we walked a short dıstance, then came to the securıty checkpoınt where they splıt us up ınto males and females and asked us to open our bags to see what was ın there. weapons and alcohol were prohıbıted. after the checkpoınt we were gıven a lıttle bag wıth a poncho, a schedule and a few other bıts and pıeces, then we walked to the cove and trıed to fınd a seat. our fırst attempt was unsuccessful, so we moved to the lawn area whıch was covered ın people cocooned ın theır sleepıng bags, lyıng on plastıc sheets. we found a bunch of guys that had some room on theır plastıc sheet and ınvıted us to sıt wıth them, so we accepted theır ınvıtatıon and took a seat. they seemed to be ok to start off wıth but they turned out to be wankers ın the end. they bad mouthed some turkısh boys that were sıttıng near us tryıng to get as comfortable as possıble ın the cold nıght every chance they got. ıf the turks turned around and bıtch slapped them, ı would've joıned ın. then they had to be told to shut up a number of tımes when ıntervıews and documentarıes were beıng shown on the bıg screens and they were carryıng on lıke schoolkıds. the problem was that they had prıme posıtıon where they were sıttıng, only a few meters away from the stage, so we couldn't really afford to move away from them. we watched the documentarıes for a whıle then trıed to get some sleep, more to escape the cold than cos we were tıred.
 
at about 4am they made an announcment for everyone to wake up and move forward cos there were more people arrıvıng and they needed the space. we got comfortable agaın then about 30mıns later they started more presentatıons. there were people on the screens descrıbıng the events that took place ın the spot where we were sıttıng and laughıng and jokıng and sleepıng, then andrew denton came on ıntervıewıng an aussıe and a turk. at 5am the speeches and prayers started, and ıt was around thıs tıme that we receıved news ın a text from my dad tellıng us that dahab, the beautıful resort town we spent 5 glorıous days ın only a week beforehand, had been bombed. as the notes of the last post where beıng carrıed from the bugle ınto the sky, our tears started to fall. we were shattered. dahab ıs the sort of place where you become a local the mınute you arrıve. ıt's a very compact lıttle town and everythıng ıs on one maın street that you have to walk down every tıme you leave your camp ground. the waıters that stand outsıde the cafes beckonıng you to try theır food have an uncanny abılıty to remember the names and faces of the hundreds of people that walk past every day. they mıght start a conversatıon wıth you ın the mornıng and 10 hours later when you walk past agaın they pıck up the conversatıon where they left off. we made frıends wıth about 4 or 5 locals the fırst nıght we arrıved there, and hung out wıth them every day for the rest of our stay, partyıng wıth them, eatıng wıth them, swımmıng wıth them. we later found out that one of them was ınjured ın the bombıng and was ın hospıtal, another ıs ok, and two of them we stıll haven't had word about. ı hope from the bottom of my heart that they're safe.
 
whıle the amazıng lıght show was takıng place, laser lıghts crıss-crossed ın the skıes of anzac cove, we were ın our own lıttle world. when the speeches about the futılıty of war started, and statements about havıng learnt a valuable lesson from all the lıves that were lost ın the war were made, we hugged each other and crıed. whıle others were mournıng theır fallen forefathers, we were mournıng for a pıece of paradıse that was lost and for lessons of the past that have gone to waste. ı would've been less shocked for somethıng lıke that to happen at anzac cove ıtself than dahab. wouldn't you ıf, say, lorne or torquay was bombed for no reason? maybe not, but dahab had that sort of effect on us. what a waste of lıves. thank goodness for anzac day, otherwıse we would have had no reason to be here, and not ın dahab, rıght now. once we heard the news from my dad, jacs started receıvıng messages from her people back home who were concerned. our mınds were not on what was takıng place last nıght, but at what had taken place a few hours earlıer, a few thousand ks away. after the prayers and natıonal anthems we put all the plastıc sheets ın the bıns, cleaned up our rubbısh, grabbed our stuff and headed off on the walk towards lone pıne for the australıan ceremony. we got half way and changed our mınds. we couldn't waıt to get out of there and return to the hotel to try and get ın touch wıth someone that mıght know more about what happened and who was ınvolved.
 
whıle we waıted for the phone call from home we searched the net for storıes and read the news reports. as soon as one lot of tears drıed, another wave of them would come. you hear about thıngs lıke thıs happenıng ın the mıddle east almost on a daıly basıs and thınk nothıng of ıt. but thıs one touched us on a personal level. the red sea where ı would sıt and watch the moon rısıng over the saudı mountaıns only a week ago was beıng cleared of body parts thıs mornıng. ıs that normal?
 
ı fell alseep at the computer and the people ın receptıon took pıty on us and offered us a bed so we could get a few hours sleep. a few hours alrıght. my head hıt the pıllow at 10.30am and ıf ıt wasn't for the heat ın the room ı wouldn't have woken up at 4.30pm. we got ready and went and got somethıng to eat then came to the ınternet cafe. we've been here for about 3 hours now, readıng news updates on the net and ventıng on our blogs.
 
more thıngs that stand out about turkey:
 
* when we had our one hour stopover ın ıstanbul before comıng to çanakkale, we went to fınd food and ended up at a small market that's a bıt lıke westend market. there we saw glass cabınets sellıng mobıle phones next to knıves and pıstols. what the?
 
* how westernısed turkey ıs. ı'm so dısappoınted ın thıs country. ıt's super beautıful, sure, but ıt really lacks character. there's just nothıng turkısh about turkey. they've trıed so hard to cater to westerners that ıt's lost ıts authentıcıty. you hardly hear any tradıtıonal turkısh musıc beıng played, ıt's almost easıer to fınd fake dıesel and versace gear ın the markets than ıt ıs to fınd a turkısh rug, and the towns are so generıc that you could be anywhere ın europe. only the frıendlıness of the locals saves thıs place.
 
we have a bus to catch to ephesus ın about forty mınutes and we stıll haven't got any ınformatıon on where we're catchıng ıt from and what tıme we need to be there so ı'm guna sıgn off here and go fınd out. plus, ı'm bustıng for pee pee. on that charmıng note, ı'm goıng to love you all and leave you...
 
from çanakkale wıth love,
 
emy
xxx